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Racine Restaurant at La Colline

As the reputation of the wines of Orange grows, so too does the reputation of this Central West hub’s restaurants. And right now, Racine is the one to beat. Shaun Arantz’s celebration of the region is both respectful and sophisticated, drawing on his experience cooking at restaurants of note in London and Sydney. On the plate, this means that roast quail will be paired with green lentils and a bread sauce made with smarts, but also a textural top-note of candied walnuts. Duck here translates to a bird pressed and boned, played against saffron and different kinds of carrots, while venison finds a superb foil in a sweet-sharp purée of rhubarb and earthy beetroot. Ginger ice-cream with blueberries and pistachio for dessert provides the perfect excuse to savour the vineyard setting, the polish of the room, the warmth of the service and an extra glass of wine.