The February issue

Our clean eating issue is out now, packed with super lunch bowls, gluten-free desserts and more - including our cruising special, covering all luxury on the seas.

Subscribe to Gourmet

Subscribe to Australian Gourmet Traveller and receive a free Gourmet Menus book - offer ends 26 February 2017.

Gourmet digital

Subscribe to Gourmet Traveller for your iPad or Android tablet.

Most popular recipes summer 2017

Counting down from 20, here are this summer's most-loved recipes.

Curtis Stone's strawberry, elderflower and brioche summer puddings

"Think of this dessert as a deconstructed version of a summer pudding, with thinly sliced strawberries macerated in elderflower liqueur and layered between slices of brioche," says Stone. "A dollop of whipped cream on top is a cooling counterpoint to the floral flavours."

Australia's best rieslings

We’re spoilt for variety – and value – in Australia when it comes to good riesling. Max Allen picks the top 20 from a fine crop.

Fig recipes

Figs. We can't get enough of them. Here are a few sweet and savoury ways to add them to your summer spread.

Chorizo hotdogs with chimichurri and smoky red relish

A hotdog is all about the condiments. Here, choose between a smoky red capsicum relish or the bright flavours of chimichurri, or go for a bit of both.

Top Australian chefs to follow on Instagram in 2017

A lot has changed since we first published our pick of the best chefs to follow on Instagram (way back in the dark ages of 2013). Here’s who we’re double-tapping on the photo-sharing app right now.

Christine Manfield recipes

As the '90s dawned, darling chefs were pushing the boundaries of cooking in this country. A young Christine Manfield, just starting out at this heady time, soon became part of the generation that redefined modern Australian cuisine. She shares some of her timeless signatures from the era.

Bali's new wave of restaurants, hotels and bars

The restaurant and hotel scene on Australia's favourite holiday island has never been more exciting and Australian chefs, owners and restaurateurs are leading the charge, writes Samantha Coomber.

Heat wave

Tabasco sauce is a favourite condiment the world over with everyone from the US military to astronauts. Colman Andrews goes to the source of the sauce.

Travelling in Europe in the late 19th century, the great American novelist Samuel Langhorne Clemens, better known as Mark Twain, compiled a list of the foods he missed from back home, some 80 items that to him represented the best of his native land's culinary bounty. When I discovered Twain's list not long ago - in his book A Tramp Abroad - I started thinking about what edibles I might pine for under similar circumstances, and by extension which ones would best define the modern-day taste, in both senses of the word, of America. Just for fun, I started to make up a list of my own - and then realised that the list might make the basis for an interesting book, identifying and celebrating the riches of our nation's diet.

What came into focus for me as I wrote down one food after another was, first of all, the extent to which the American larder has found room for the flavours of the world. Bratwurst, corn tortillas and miso paste are as much a part of what we eat as cranberries, smoked turkey and grass-fed steak. I was reminded that we do love our junk food (Fritos, fried pork rinds, Junior Mints), but we also produce sophisticated fare like caviar, smoked salmon and Maine lobster. I soon realised the foods that typify America aren't always artisanal or organic - that agribusiness and multinational corporations feed us, too.

Fiddlehead ferns reaped by foragers, wild-caught Copper River salmon, and small-batch goat's cheese from Georgia made my menu, but so did barbecue potato chips, Snickers and Coca-Cola. I included, that is, what my fellow citizens (and I) consume, not what Alice Waters wishes we would.

One of the most emblematic of American foods to me is Tabasco sauce. This politely spicy, vinegar-based condiment isn't Mexican or Asian in style; it's the sort of thing folks down in Louisiana, where it was invented back in the 1860s, like to use to perk up their already plenty perky cooking, a sauce that came out of a culture whose antecedents were French, Spanish, African and Caribbean. It's like a piquant distillation of the melting pot, Louisiana style - but it has found a place on tables all over America, and around the world.

HOT SAUCE
I have a friend who carries a bottle of Tabasco in a custom-made leather case, slightly smaller than something you'd keep your sunglasses in, every time he goes out to eat. In his opinion, there are very few foods, regardless of cuisine, that do not benefit from being anointed with this vinegary, pleasantly spicy condiment.

The world is full of hot sauces, but there is probably no other that inspires passion and loyalty across a broad spectrum of fans as much as this one: Tabasco has long been included in US military rations; American astronauts demand it in space - apparently they begin to lose their sense of taste after a few days out of the Earth's atmosphere, and crave Tabasco's fire and acidity; and an Australian aficionado went on TV and drank two bottles of it in 30 seconds, securing a place in the Guinness World Records.

Tabasco was created by Edmund McIlhenny, a Maryland-born banker who prospered in New Orleans until the Civil War, fled to Texas with the Confederate army and ended up after the conflict living on Avery Island, Louisiana, just south-west of New Iberia - a salt dome surrounded by bayous and marshland, owned by the Avery family, McIlhenny's in-laws. McIlhenny tended the family garden on the island, growing chillies, among other fruit and vegetables and, at some point in the late 1860s, he concocted what he eventually called Tabasco Brand Pepper Sauce. He went on to patent it in 1870.

McIlhenny himself, who died in 1890, apparently didn't realise how large a market there might be for his invention, but his sons did. They built a large business that remains family-owned today, producing not only Tabasco sauce but six other hot sauces under the Tabasco label, including ones flavoured with chipotle, jalapeño and habanero chillies.

Until the 1960s, all the chillies used in Tabasco were grown on Avery Island. Some still are, but most are produced under contract on farms throughout Central America, using seeds propagated on the island. Chillies used for Tabasco sauce ripen from green to yellow to red, and the workers who hand-harvest them carry a small red-painted stick; chillies ripe enough for harvest match its colour. The chillies are ground and salted - mines on Avery Island supplied salt to the Confederates and still provide at least a portion of what is used for Tabasco - and the mash is aged in old oak barrels for three years in island warehouses. Finally, it's mixed with vinegar, aged another month, and then bottled.

Classic Tabasco sauce is not particularly spicy, measuring no more that 5000 Scoville units (the cult favourite Dave's Insanity Sauce clocks in at 180,000 units, by comparison), but it has a good flavour and imparts a mild burn to the palate, nicely outlined by acidity.

It makes a great secret ingredient to stews and sauces, perks up grilled meats and is an indispensable ingredient in any good Bloody Mary.

+ This is an extract of The Taste of America by Colman Andrews, with GT style changes (Phaidon, $35, hbk). 

Related link: Colman Andrews on Texas-style barbecue brisket.

Newsletter

Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.

Latest news
Sydney’s heatwaves are affecting your croissants
22.02.2017
Recipes by Christine Manfield
21.02.2017
How to grow rocket
20.02.2017
On the Pass: Danielle Rensonnet
16.02.2017
Four ways with furikake
13.02.2017
The trailer for Chef's Table season three is here
10.02.2017
GT
Signature Collection

Find out more about the Gourmet Traveller Signature Collection by Robert Gordon Australia, including where to buy it in store and online.

Read More
Recipe collections

Looking for ways to make the most out of seasonal produce? Want to find a recipe perfect for a party? Or just after fresh ideas for dessert? Either way, our recipe collections have you covered.

See more
2017 Restaurant Guide

Our 2017 Restaurant Guide is online, covering over 400 restaurants Australia wide. Never wonder where to dine again.

See more

You might also like...

Hot 100 2015 - Food

The world is getting hotter and we’re not talking about glob...

The producers: Two Rivers Green Tea

A leading local tea exporter now offers his leaves to the do...

The producers: Colony honey

A selection of regional monofloral honeys sourced direct fro...

Liquid gold

We find ourselves inexorably drawn to salt caramel in a jar....

The producers: Atssu Divers

Hand-dived abalone, turban shell and sea urchin.

Making a scene

Entertainer Julia Zemiro notes there’s little difference bet...

Game of Thrones food

Pat Nourse caught up with George RR Martin to talk about one...

Deutscher’s Turkey Farm

When it comes to talking turkey, the best birds have lived t...

Sandor Ellix Katz Q&A

Food fermentation 'revivalist' and guru Sandor Ellix Katz di...

The producers: Alexandrina Jersey milk

Meet the producers of the creme de la creme of Australian fu...

On the pass

Looking back over the 20 years she's been in business, Phill...

Gamze smokehouse

Bringing local flavour to artisan-made bacon.

Gourmet Traveller Gourmet Fast app

Now, here's a mighty handful: GT's Gourmet Fast recipes are ...

Food emoji we wish existed

What? More than 200 new pictograms in the latest Emoji set, ...

What is jumbuck?

The jumbuck has leapt straight from the pages of Banjo Pater...

get the latest news

Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.

×