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Pierre Khodja’s Camus opens this week, bringing the vibrant flavours of his Algerian homeland to Northcote’s High Street.
Here's the story behind it.
Destroyed by fire in 2014, the Stokehouse has returned as an elegant foreshore precinct. Michael Harden talks to owner Frank van Haandel about the rebirth of a landmark.
Millbrook Winery chef Guy Jeffreys walks us through his approach to cooking and what's on the menu this month and next.
New York is overflowing with so many great new places to eat – where to start? Our chief critic, Pat Nourse, checks out the greatest of the latest.
A zesty riff on an apres-ski pick-me-up.
There's extreme skiing, and then there's skiing in Antarctica.
Attica’s chef isn’t happiest when eating soils or smears on his days off, it’s souvlaki. We follow him to his favourite spot.
Whether caramelised in a tarte Tartin, paired with slow-roasted pork on top of pizza or tossed through salads, this sweet stone fruit is an excellent addition to summer cooking.
Instagram’s most famous cake, plus a few other sweet hits, is heading south.
Australia is about to get its first glimpse of Seabourn Encore, a glamorous new addition to the Seabourn fleet.
Whether it's mixed through black rice pudding with caramelised bananas, shredded on top of mango trifle or toasted and served with coconut jelly, coconut adds tropical touch and fragrance to summer desserts.
What is it about chefs and tattoos? A new book asks the inked to answer for themselves.
With fresh ingredients and lots of spices, these light and healthy recipes are perfect for summer.
Melbourne, it's finally your turn for a taste of David Thompson's uncompromising Thai cooking.
The ritual of breaking one's fast has its place, says Fergus
Henderson, but should never be done at brunch.
Breakfast has many roles in life.
It's the first sustenance of the day, which, in itself, can be restorative or preparational, depending on the individual. I'm a confirmed lunch man, of course, so breakfast in my case is usually a coffee, a cigarette and a Fernet Branca, being about all I can manage first thing. This is where the elevenses come in handy, always a slice of seed cake and a glass of Madeira.
As you wake up in the morning and become aware of your innards and extremities you may require a late breakfast, but be careful - too late and we move into brunch territory, which is something we don't want to do. Brunch is the bastardisation of two great moments in the culinary day into a damp squib, neither one thing nor the other. Then there is the unanswered question: what do you drink with brunch? A wineless purgatory!
It makes great sense to do much of our eating in the morning, helping our guts digest and process, compared with filling our guts, then shutting down overnight, leaving supper to fester in your stomach.
But I've nailed my colours to the mast on this subject in the
past, so let's return to breakfast and the breakfast greats. One,
on a train travelling from Glasgow to London, with the view of the
Lake District speeding past as you attack a brace of kippers and a
glass of Guinness. It doesn't come much better (just remember the
kipper-burps that stay with you a while, but nothing can be
perfect). The next great breakfast: the Caffè Florian on St Mark's
Square. The odd coffee, a chocolate ice-cream and a Fernet; we had
to remortgage our house to pay the bill, of course, but what the
hell - it's Venice. And then there was the time, many years ago,
when I went to Prague with the Architectural Association before the
Velvet Revolution. Wandering back to our hotel early in the morning
we were met by a happy scene of folk eating freshly baked bread
with coarse sea salt and drinking beer - not something you come
across every day.
Why is breakfast on my mind, you might wonder. Well, I work next to Smithfield meat market in London, around which the pubs have special licences to open early for the market workers, and it so happens that on my way to work today, feeling peckish, I popped into The Hope for the porter's breakfast, which occasionally beckons to me with its instant-comfort quality: sausage, egg, beans, bacon, toast and a Guinness. It's been a while since I was last there and judging from how many folk were in there, there must be fewer people working in the market nowadays than I thought - either that or they've all taken the pledge.
Sadly gone now is The Cock Tavern under the poultry market, where the landlord once turned to me and said he was having a particularly good morning - the Criminal Investigation Department were at the end of the bar drinking Château Montrachet. Who would have thought that breakfast can be weirder than lunch?
A long time ago as an architectural student one would work through the night and reward ourselves with a good breakfast at one of these Smithfield Market pubs. The only technical hitch was that the beer and the warmth of the pub led to breakfast narcolepsy. Many a time someone had to be rescued from suffocation by breakfast.
The great fault in all this is that modern urban life does not lend itself to a hearty breakfast. Here speaks a chap who can be felled by a bowl of porridge, which is innocent enough. And a fry-up is another thing altogether, more suited to tilling the land than sitting at a desk - factors that keep that kind of breakfast in the realms of a holiday treat or something for the weekend.
Rituals like these are important for passing the day, and lunch is a vital ritual, so I must end by picking up on a point I've already made: say no to brunch and give us back lunch.
Illustration: Lara Porter
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