Even though most of us associate seafood with summer, it's actually at peak value in winter and spring. One problem is that we often don't know how to get the best from less-familiar species, so this winter try something new.
A great place to start is albacore tuna. It's abundant and in premium condition over winter, and it's a bargain to boot. Serve it raw or slow-cooked; try a Sicilian-style tomato, olive oil, garlic, onion and caper stew.
Speaking of braises, Gould's squid - sometimes referred to as arrow squid - is delicious and cheap in the cooler months. It's often found at the local fisho in a party dress of crumb or batter; buy yours whole instead, take both layers of slippery skin off and braise it slowly in olive oil and tomato passata with capers, onions and garlic for a luxurious, rich dish that can bear the cold outdoors better than most roasted joints of land animal.
And what about mirror Dory? Cousin to the more famous John, it's
firm, mild and sweet, but much less expensive. Ask your fishmonger
to gut it and chop off its head, then take it home and pan-fry it
on the bone (a good move with any Dory) in butter.
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