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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

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Brae

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Jacques Reymond: Gratin of silverbeet, potatoes and pickled veal tongue with Morbier


You'll need

2 pickled veal tongues (about 230gm each, see note) 4 Nicola potatoes (200gm each) 1 bunch silverbeet, washed and trimmed 40 gm butter, coarsely chopped 2 tbsp hazelnut oil 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 200 ml pouring cream 1 tbsp small salted capers, rinsed 100 gm Morbier, thinly sliced 20 gm panko breadcrumbs

Method

  • 01
  • Place veal tongue and potato in a large saucepan, cover generously with cold water, bring to the simmer over medium heat, cook until very tender (45-50 minutes). Remove tongue from liquid with a slotted spoon and, while still hot, peel (discard skin), return to liquid and set aside.
  • 02
  • Preheat oven to 180C. Blanch silverbeet until tender (1-2 minutes), refresh and drain well. Squeeze excess water from silverbeet, then chop coarsely. Heat butter and hazelnut oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat, add garlic and sauté until golden (2-3 minutes). Add silverbeet, season to taste, swirl quickly, add cream, cook until slightly reduced (2-3 minutes) and set aside.
  • 03
  • Drain tongue and potato (reserve 60ml cooking liquid), thinly slice and set aside.
  • 04
  • Layer silverbeet mixture, potato and tongue in a 2 litre-capacity gratin dish, scatter over capers. Pour over reserved cooking liquid to moisten, then cover with Morbier, season with freshly ground pepper, scatter with breadcrumbs. Cover with foil, bake for 10 minutes, uncover, bake until melted and golden (8-10 minutes) and serve immediately.
Note You’ll need to order pickled veal tongue ahead from your butcher.

This recipe is from the July 2009 issue of Australian Gourmet Traveller.

At A Glance

  • Serves 6 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 6 people

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