Healthy Eating

We're championing fresh food that packs a flavour punch, from salads and vegetable-packed bowls to grains and light desserts.

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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

2017 Australian Hotel Awards: The Finalists

This year's finalists across 11 different categories include established and new hotels, all with particular areas of excellence. Stay tuned to find out which hotels will take the top spots when they're announced at a ceremony at QT Melbourne on Wednesday 24 May, and published in our 2017 Australian Hotel Guide, on sale Thursday 25 May.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Poulet au vin jaune


"This is a classic chicken dish of the Jura, where the chicken is cooked in the aged Sherry-like wine of the region," says Hird. "We've combined this with the cooking technique of poulet en vessie (chicken cooked in a pig's bladder). A pig's bladder isn't easy to come by, so an oven bag provides the perfect substitute and a good fino Sherry is a suitable replacement if you can't find vin jaune. Otherwise spend the money on purchasing a great vintage and enjoy drinking this belter of a wine from the Jura. At Vincent we serve poulet au vin jaune with a fondant potato cooked in a rich chicken stock and dusted with pine ash, as a nod to the paysage of Jura." You'll need two unperforated oven bags for this recipe.

You'll need

20 gm dried morels 2 chicken buffes from two 1.5kg free-range chickens, at room temperature (see note) 1 onion, thinly sliced ¼ cup flat-leaf parsley stalks, thinly sliced 4 thyme sprigs 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 150 gm unsalted butter, diced 200 ml vin jaune or fino Sherry 200 ml brown chicken stock (see note) 4 golden shallots, finely chopped 100 gm chestnut mushrooms, trimmed 50 ml lightly whipped pouring cream To serve: blanched broad beans   Potato fondant 50 gm butter 4 Dutch cream potatoes (220gm each), trimmed into “hockey puck” shapes, 7cm in diameter x 4cm thick 325 ml (1½ cups) brown chicken stock

Method

  • 01
  • Soak morels in 250ml water to rehydrate and remove any dirt (2-3 hours). Drain in a sieve over a bowl, reserving liquid, rinse mushrooms again and set aside. Strain the soaking liquid over another bowl through a sieve lined with absorbent paper to capture all the dirt and reserve filtered liquid.
  • 02
  • For potato fondant, preheat oven to 220C. Melt butter in a saucepan, add potatoes and stock and bring to the boil over medium heat, then reduce heat and simmer, topping up with water as necessary to keep just covered until tender when tested with a skewer (35-40 minutes). Drain potatoes, then transfer to a foil-lined baking tray and roast until just starting to colour (8-10 minutes). Set aside and keep warm.
  • 03
  • Season chicken well, place breast-side down in separate oven bags (see note) and fill cavities with onion, parsley stalks, thyme and garlic. Divide 100gm butter between the 2 buffes, then do the same with the vin jaune, chicken stock and strained morel liquid. Bundle the bags tightly around each chicken, squeezing out as much air as possible, then tie them securely with kitchen string.
  • 04
  • Gently place each bag in a large saucepan of simmering water over low-medium heat, with small rack or up-turned bowl in each to keep them from touching the base. The bags should rest just below the surface of the water; if not, place a weight on top to keep them submerged and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove bags, then rest each in a separate bowl in a warm place to finish cooking (50-60 minutes). Untie the bags and drain chicken juices into a saucepan then re-tie the bags to keep chicken warm and moist.
  • 05
  • Heat remaining butter in a large frying pan over medium heat and sauté shallots until soft (3-5 minutes). Add morels and chestnut mushrooms, and simmer until just tender (1-2 minutes). Meanwhile, reduce chicken juices over high heat until the sauce coats the back of a spoon (8-10 minutes), then add to mushroom mixture, stir to combine, and fold in cream for a velvety finish. Keep warm.
  • 06
  • To serve, separate chicken breasts from carcasses, carve and arrange on plates with potato fondant, scatter with blanched broad beans and spoon mushroom sauce over.

Note Chicken buffes are whole breasts and wings left intact on the rib cage, with legs removed. You'll need to order it from a specialist butcher. Brown chicken stock is made from roasted chicken bones. If you can't find unperforated oven bags, use large snap-lock bags tied tightly with string.


At A Glance

  • Serves 4 - 6 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 4 - 6 people

Drink Suggestion

2003 Jean François Ganevat Côtes du Jura Vin Jaune Savagnin Blanc.

Featured in

Oct 2013

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