Healthy Eating

We're championing fresh food that packs a flavour punch, from salads and vegetable-packed bowls to grains and light desserts.

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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

O Tama Carey's fried eggs with seeni sambol, coconut and turmeric

"I first cooked a version of this dish - inspired by the excellent deep-fried egg dish at Billy Kwong - while working at a restaurant in Sri Lanka," says O Tama Carey. "The lattice-like eggs are doused in a creamy turmeric curry sauce and topped with seeni sambol, a sweet-spiced caramelised onion relish. This dish is equally perfect for an indulgent breakfast as it is served as part of a larger meal." The recipe for the seeni sambol makes more than you need, but to get the right balance of spices you need to make at least this much. It keeps refrigerated for up to three weeks; use as an onion relish. The curry sauce can be made a day or two ahead.

Salad of smoked bonito, piquillo peppers and celery


You'll need

150 gm bonito fillets, skin on 30 gm sea salt 50 gm brown sugar 300 ml extra-virgin olive oil 1 small celery stalk (from the inner section of the bunch), thinly sliced, leaves torn 1 Lebanese cucumber, thinly sliced 1-1½ piquillo peppers, sliced (see note) 1 spring onion, thinly sliced   Vinaigrette 40 ml extra-virgin olive oil 40 ml white vinegar ½ garlic clove, microplaned

Method

  • 01
  • Put the bonito fillets in a non-reactive container. Whisk the salt, brown sugar and 750ml (3 cups) water in a bowl until the salt and sugar have dissolved, then pour onto the fish, cover and refrigerate to brine lightly for 20 minutes.
  • 02
  • Remove the fillets from the brine, pat them dry with absorbent paper, then cold-smoke them (see note) for 15-20 minutes at medium-high smoke.
  • 03
  • Heat the extra-virgin olive oil in a small saucepan over low heat. Add the bonito fillets and poach in the oil, warming them through until they’re flaking apart. Remove with a slotted spoon. Once cool enough to handle, peel off and discard the skin, then flake the fish.
  • 04
  • For the vinaigrette, place all ingredients in a bowl, season with a pinch of fine sea salt and whisk to combine.
  • 05
  • Arrange the flaked bonito, celery and leaves, cucumber and piquillo pepper on a plate. Drizzle with the vinaigrette and finish with spring onion.
Note Piquillo peppers are available from select delicatessens. Milgate and Abrahanowicz like to use the cold smoking method because it gives more control over temperature and a more delicate finish to the fish. They use a little charcoal just to get the wood chips started; you want to produce plenty of smoke but no fire. Cold-smokers are available from specialist barbecue stores. This recipe is from Recipes for a Good Time (RRP $59.95) by Elvis Abrahanowicz & Ben Milgate, published by Murdoch Books, and has been reproduced with minor Gourmet Traveller style changes.

At A Glance

  • Serves 8 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 8 people

Featured in

Nov 2013

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