"A rolled sponge is not as tricky as it looks: the secret is to roll the sponge as soon as it comes out of the oven. When it cools, it will retain the shape - just be careful, for it'll also be more brittle. There's no baking powder in the sponge mixture, so every opportunity needs to be taken to incorporate air," writes Dunn. "Whisk the eggs and sugar until they are really pale in colour and go gently when folding in the flour."
Note This recipe is from The Agrarian Kitchen ($59.99, hbk) by Rodney Dunn, published by Lantern, and reproduced with minor GT style changes.