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AA Gill's final column for Gourmet Traveller

We mourn the loss of a treasured member of the Gourmet Traveller family who passed awayon December 10, 2016. British writer AA Gill was a contributor to the magazine from July 2004. Gill’s travel column was as insightful as it was witty, funny as it was thoughtful – he was without peer. This is the final piece he wrote for Gourmet Traveller; it appears in the December issue, 2016. - Anthea Loucas Bosha, Editor

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Coconut crab and green mango salad

"This salad bursts with fresh, vibrant flavours and became a signature on my Paramount menus," says Christine Manfield. "I capitalised on using green mangoes in many dishes as they became more widely available. Blue swimmer crabs from South Australia have the most delicious sweet meat. It's best to buy them whole, cook them yourself and carefully pick the meat from the shell - a tedious task but it gives the best flavour. This entree also works well with spanner crab meat (you can buy this in packs ready cooked from reliable fishmongers). The sweetness of the crab, the richness of the fresh coconut and the sourness of green mango make a wonderful partnership. It's all about harmony on the palate and using the very best produce."

Lobster tagliarini


"It's impressive to have lobster on the menu," says Hafner, "and the great thing is, in this pasta dish, a little bit of lobster goes a long way. It also works well with good dried pasta if you don't want to make your own pasta - I recommend Benedetto Cavalieri spaghetti from Simon Johnson."

You'll need

2 small live lobsters (450gm each) 50 gm butter 125 ml (½ cup) extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for sauce if necessary 2 small garlic cloves, very thinly sliced 10 basil leaves, finely chopped 2 tbsp coarsely torn flat-leaf parsley, plus extra to garnish 3 vine-ripened tomatoes, seeded, diced 1 tbsp baby capers   Pasta dough 700 gm (6 cups) pasta “00” flour 7 eggs

Method

  • 01
  • For pasta dough, place flour in a bowl and make a well in the centre. Crack eggs into it and mix with a fork, then start incorporating flour into the eggs, using your hand to combine. Turn out onto a lightly floured bench and knead until mixture is smooth (10 minutes). You may need to add more flour if mixture is sticky. Wrap in plastic wrap and rest for 30 minutes. Roll a quarter of the dough through a pasta machine, starting on widest setting and reducing a notch at a time until the second-to-last setting. Pass it through the spaghetti setting, then hang it over a wooden broom handle or clothes rack to dry slightly in a draught-free room (1 hour). Repeat with remaining dough.
  • 02
  • Kill lobster humanely, then remove the head using a heavy knife. Boil lobster in a large saucepan of heavily salted water for 4 minutes and refresh in ice water. Remove all the meat from the shell (reserve shell and head to make stock for another use), chop coarsely and refrigerate until required.
  • 03
  • When ready to serve, bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil. Heat butter and oil in another large saucepan over medium heat, add garlic and stir until pale golden (2-3 minutes). Add lobster meat, basil, parsley, tomatoes and capers. Season to taste and simmer until tomatoes have broken down (5 minutes). You may need to add extra olive oil for a smoother sauce. Keep warm.
  • 04
  • Cook pasta in the boiling water until al dente (1-2 minutes). Drain, reserving 200ml cooking water, and toss pasta through the lobster mixture. Add enough reserved pasta water so the sauce coats pasta well and serve immediately.

At A Glance

  • Serves 8 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 8 people

Drink Suggestion

A Hubert Lamy white Burgundy

Featured in

Dec 2013

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