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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Goat’s yoghurt sorbet with warm burnt honey madeleines


"Goat's yoghurt sorbet is one of my favourites because it's so versatile," says James Henry. "At Bones, we sometimes serve it with our version of a carrot cake, or with something as simple as strawberries and crisp clove meringue. We make our own goat's milk yoghurt, but a good shop-bought one works well too. When you're making the madeleines, make sure you caramelise the honey well; otherwise, the madeleines will be too sweet." You'll need to begin this recipe two days ahead to drain the yoghurt.

You'll need

90 gm honey 100 gm butter, coarsely chopped, plus extra, melted, for brushing 70 gm blanched almonds 2 eggs 25 gm caster sugar Finely grated rind of ½ lemon 50 gm (1/3 cup) plain flour ¼ tsp baking powder To serve: extra-virgin olive oil and thyme leaves   Goat’s yoghurt sorbet 1 kg goat’s milk yoghurt 250 ml (1 cup) each goat’s milk and pouring cream 175 gm caster sugar 1 tbsp liquid glucose Zested rind of 1 lemon ½ tsp dried lavender (see note)

Method

  • 01
  • For goat’s yoghurt sorbet, place yoghurt in a muslin-lined colander over a bowl, cover and refrigerate until whey has drained and yoghurt is very thick (36 hours; discard whey). Combine remaining ingredients in a saucepan and heat to just below the simmer over medium heat, stirring to dissolve sugar. Set aside to cool and infuse (1 hour), then strain into a bowl and whisk in drained yoghurt. Churn in an ice-cream machine and freeze until required. Sorbet is best eaten on the day it’s churned. Makes about 1.5 litres.
  • 02
  • Cook honey in a small saucepan over medium-high heat until caramelised (2-3 minutes; be careful, honey will foam and rise). Dip base of saucepan quickly in cold water to stop cooking, set aside and keep warm.
  • 03
  • Heat butter in a saucepan over medium-high heat, swirling pan occasionally, until nut-brown (3-4 minutes). Dip base of saucepan quickly in cold water to stop cooking, then set aside and keep warm.
  • 04
  • Process almonds in a food processor until finely ground, then set aside.
  • 05
  • Whisk eggs, sugar, lemon rind and a pinch of salt in an electric mixer until pale and fluffy (3-4 minutes), then gradually pour in warm honey and whisk to combine. Sieve over flour and baking powder, add ground almonds and fold to combine, then fold in warm butter. Madeleine batter can be made 2 days ahead and refrigerated until required.
  • 06
  • Preheat oven to 180C. Brush large madeleine moulds with melted butter, spoon 1 tbsp batter into each (don’t overfill) and bake until golden and puffed (5-7 minutes). Remove madeleines from moulds, wipe out moulds and repeat with remaining batter. Serve madeleines warm with goat’s yoghurt sorbet drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil and scattered with thyme leaves.

Note Dried lavender is available from Herbie's Spices. Madeleine moulds are available from select cookware shops. 


At A Glance

  • Serves 24 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 24 people

Featured in

Jun 2013

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