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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Lemon dream

"This cake is the new religion at Flour and Stone, and never fails to send those worshipping it into a dream of billowy clouds," says Ingram. "It has come to many parties, including one where its name was changed to reflect the euphoric place it transports you to."

Barrel-aged feta tou fournou with chilli, roast garlic and oregano


"Try to source a barrel-aged feta such as the Mt Vikos or a spicy piperati. It will really make this meze sing," says Peter Conistis.

You'll need

20 garlic cloves (about 100gm) 1 tbsp lemon thyme leaves 200 ml mild-flavoured olive oil 4 100gm pieces barrel-aged feta (see note) 8 pickled green chillies (see note) 2 long red chillies, seeds removed, finely diced 1 tsp dried Greek oregano (see note) 2 tbsp oregano   Fillo crisps 150 gm (1 cup) plain flour 2 tsp olive oil For brushing: melted butter

Method

  • 01
  • For fillo crisps, preheat oven to 180C. Combine flour, oil, ½ tsp salt and 80ml water in a bowl and mix to combine. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface, knead until smooth (2-3 minutes), cover with plastic wrap and set aside to rest (1 hour). Halve dough and, working with one half at a time, roll through a pasta machine, folding, rolling and reducing settings notch by notch until the last setting, halve pastry sheet before rolling through the final setting. Place fillo sheets on a well-floured surface, brush one sheet of fillo with melted butter, sprinkle with sea salt, then top with another sheet of fillo. Press down lightly and cut into 5cm x 12cm rectangles. Repeat with remaining dough. Bake on an oven tray lined with baking paper until golden and crisp (10-12 minutes), then set aside.
  • 02
  • Reduce oven to 160C. Place garlic cloves and thyme in a small baking dish, cover with oil and bake until garlic is soft and lightly golden (25-30 minutes). Reserve garlic and oil separately.
  • 03
  • Increase oven to 200C. Cut each piece of feta lengthways into 4 thick slices and place each in an ovenproof ramekin. Divide roast garlic among ramekins and top each with 2 green chillies.
  • 04
  • Combine red chilli and dried oregano with 80ml reserved garlic oil in a bowl and pour mixture evenly over feta. Bake until feta is warmed through (15-20 minutes). Top with fresh oregano and serve with fillo crisps.

Note Barrel-aged feta, pickled chillies and Greek oregano are available from Greek delicatessens.


At A Glance

  • Serves 4 - 6 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 4 - 6 people

Drink Suggestion

2012 Kir-Yianni Petra, Florina, Greece.

Featured in

Sep 2013

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