"My mum tricked us into believing that lambs' brains were chicken nuggets," says Calombaris. "I thank her for that because when lambs' brains are done well they're delicious. The secret is to wash them properly and then cook them by simmering in stock or water first before frying. It stops them getting milky, which is really no good. I like to use panko crumbs so they're super-crunchy. The char on the leek cream, meanwhile, is very important to the flavour profile of this dish."