Healthy Eating

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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Fat chips with feta


"True Hellenic street food - I love this," says Calombaris. "The feta acts as the salt to the chip."

You'll need

3 large sebago potatoes, cut into 2cm-thick chips 1 tbsp fine salt 4 garlic cloves, unpeeled 100 ml olive oil For deep-frying: cottonseed oil 1 tbsp flaked sea salt 1 tsp dried rigani (Greek oregano) 80 gm feta, preferably Dodoni

Method

  • 01
  • Cover potato chips with cold salted water in a saucepan and bring to the simmer over medium-high heat until just tender (7-8 minutes). Drain, then spread on a tray lined with several layers of absorbent paper and set aside to dry (2-3 hours).
  • 02
  • Meanwhile, preheat oven to 180C. Wrap garlic loosely in foil and roast until golden and tender (15-20 minutes). Squeeze from skins into a bowl, add olive oil and set aside.
  • 03
  • Heat cottonseed oil in a large saucepan to 140C. Fry chips in batches until pale golden (7-8 minutes; take care, hot oil may spit), drain on absorbent paper and set aside, then increase oil temperature to 180C.
  • 04
  • Meanwhile, combine sea salt and rigani in a bowl and set aside.
  • 05
  • Deep-fry chips again in batches until crisp and dark golden (2-3 minutes; take care, hot oil may spit), then drain on absorbent paper. Toss in garlic oil and serve hot with feta crumbled over, and seasoned to taste with rigani salt.

At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people

Featured in

Aug 2013

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