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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Moussaka omelette


"This idea came from when I was in Gazi late at night and there was a guy who just made omelettes," says Calombaris. "He'd make them with all sorts of things like meatballs or loukaniko or vegetables. So I thought I'd do mine with moussaka. At our Gazi, we serve it with crisp fried onion rings."

You'll need

70 ml olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 fresh bay leaf 1 cinnamon quill 150 gm lean minced lamb 100 ml dry white wine 100 gm canned crushed tomatoes 2 kipfler potatoes (about 60gm each) 6 eggs, lightly beaten To serve: Kewpie (Japanese) mayonnaise, coarsely grated kefalograviera and chopped flat-leaf parsley   Pickled eggplant 1½ tbsp olive oil 2 small Japanese eggplants, cut into 2cm-thick rounds 50 ml white wine vinegar, such as chardonnay 25 gm brown sugar 2 cloves 1 star anise

Method

  • 01
  • For pickled eggplant, heat olive oil in a saucepan over medium-high heat, add eggplant and turn occasionally until browned (4-5 minutes). Add remaining ingredients, season to taste and simmer, stirring occasionally, until eggplant is tender (5-6 minutes). Set aside.
  • 02
  • Heat 30ml olive oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat, add onion, garlic, bay leaf and cinnamon and stir occasionally until onion is tender (5-6 minutes). Add lamb and stir, breaking up with a wooden spoon, until evenly browned (6-7 minutes). Deglaze pan with wine and simmer until almost reduced (1 minute). Add tomato, season to taste and simmer until thick (1 minute).
  • 03
  • Meanwhile, cook potato in a small saucepan of boiling salted water until tender (15-20 minutes), drain and set aside to cool, then dice and set aside.
  • 04
  • Heat grill to high. Heat 2 tsp of remaining olive oil in a 12cm-diameter ovenproof frying pan over medium-high heat, add quarter of the diced potato and stir occasionally until golden (2-3 minutes). Add quarter of the lamb mixture and stir to combine. Reduce heat to low, add a quarter of the eggs, season to taste and cook for 1 minute. Place pan under grill (not too close to the heat) and cook until just set (1½-2 minutes). Transfer omelette to a plate and keep warm. Repeat with remaining ingredients to make 3 more omelettes. Serve hot topped with pickled eggplant and Kewpie mayonnaise (onion rings optional), then scattered with kefalograviera and parsley.

At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people

Drink Suggestion

2009 Karydas Xinomavro, Naoussa.

Featured in

Aug 2013

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