"Pigeon, or squab, lends a beautifully deep, rich flavour to this ragù," says Hafner. "However, you could also use quail. A good dry Marsala is essential; otherwise use an oloroso sherry or perhaps a good red wine. For the gnocchi, work with the dough while it's hot to get a light and fluffy texture. Have everything ready before the potatoes are cooked, and I find it helps to roll and cut with two people if possible."
Note Pigeons are available from select butchers and may need to be ordered ahead.