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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Gnocchi with pigeon and Marsala ragù


"Pigeon, or squab, lends a beautifully deep, rich flavour to this ragù," says Hafner. "However, you could also use quail. A good dry Marsala is essential; otherwise use an oloroso sherry or perhaps a good red wine. For the gnocchi, work with the dough while it's hot to get a light and fluffy texture. Have everything ready before the potatoes are cooked, and I find it helps to roll and cut with two people if possible."

You'll need

80 gm butter, coarsely chopped 12 sage leaves To serve: finely shaved parmesan   Pigeon and Marsala ragù 20 gm butter 2 tbsp olive oil 3 squab pigeons (about 500gm each), legs and breasts removed from frames (see note) 2 small carrots, finely chopped 2 small celery stalks, finely chopped 1 large onion, finely chopped 1 tsp finely chopped rosemary 2 garlic cloves, sliced 250 ml dry Marsala 40 gm dried morel or porcini mushrooms, soaked in 125ml warm water for 15 minutes   Gnocchi 750 gm Desiree potatoes (about 3 large), unpeeled, scrubbed 100 gm (1/3 cup) plain flour 1 egg yolk ¼ nutmeg, finely grated For drizzling: olive oil

Method

  • 01
  • For ragù, heat butter and oil in a casserole over medium heat, add squab legs and breasts and cook, turning occasionally, until golden (5-7 minutes). Season to taste, remove from pan and set aside. Reduce heat to low-medium, add carrot, celery and onion to casserole, and stir occasionally until soft and golden (10-15 minutes). Add rosemary and garlic, and cook for 1 minute. Add Marsala, squab frames, legs and breasts, season to taste, reduce heat to low and simmer until meat falls from the bone (1-1½ hours). Remove casserole from heat, discard carcasses, then remove breast and leg pieces, and flake or chop meat finely (discard bones and skin). Skim fat off cooking liquid, return meat to casserole, add mushrooms and soaking liquid, and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Check seasoning. (There should be just enough sauce to cover the meat; add a little water or chicken stock if it’s dry).
  • 02
  • Meanwhile, for gnocchi, preheat oven to 175C. Boil potatoes in a large saucepan from a cold start until tender (30-35 minutes). Drain, then place on a tray in the oven to dry (5 minutes). Cool slightly for 5 minutes, then peel (potatoes will be hot). Pass through a mouli or potato ricer (or mash with a hand masher) into a bowl. Add sifted flour, yolk and nutmeg, season to taste, then gently work together using your hands until a smooth soft dough forms (add more flour if it’s sticky). Divide into quarters and, working with a piece at a time (cover remaining dough with a tea towel), roll on a lightly floured surface into a log the width of your finger, then cut into 2cm pieces. Roll each piece over the back of a fork to create grooves on one side, then make an indentation with your thumb on the other side to capture the sauce, or you can just indent each piece. Repeat with remaining dough and set aside, covered, on a lightly floured tray until required. Makes about 80.
  • 03
  • Cook small batches of gnocchi in a large saucepan of boiling salted water until they rise to the surface (2-4 minutes). Remove with a slotted spoon and add to ragù, mix to combine and spoon onto plates.
  • 04
  • Cook butter to nut-brown in a small saucepan over high heat, swirling pan occasionally (2-4 minutes), add sage leaves and, once crisp, spoon butter and sage over gnocchi and serve scattered with parmesan.
Note Pigeons are available from select butchers and may need to be ordered ahead.

At A Glance

  • Serves 6 - 8 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 6 - 8 people

Drink Suggestion

Cantina del Pino Nebbiolo d’Alba, Piedmont.

Featured in

Mar 2014

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