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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Pork chop with bulldog sauce


"If you get into Tokyo early, don't eat breakfast on the plane," says McConnell. "Wait and get a crumbed pork loin sandwich and a can of sake on the train - it's the best and most civilised way to arrive in any city."

You'll need

4 pork chops (about 200gm each and 1.5cm thick), skin removed 35 gm (¼ cup) plain flour 2 eggs, lightly beaten 100 gm (2 cups) panko crumbs ¼ head of cabbage 3 tbsp grapeseed oil   Bulldog sauce 2 carrots, finely chopped 2 celery stalks, finely chopped 2 apples, grated 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 300 ml ketchup 240 ml Worcestershire sauce 260 ml rice vinegar 170 ml mirin 1 tsp ground allspice Pinch of ground cinnamon Pinch of ground cloves 220 gm (1 cup) brown sugar 1 tbsp finely grated ginger 2 tsp hot English mustard

Method

  • 01
  • Strip the chop bones of excess fat and sinew. Place flour on a plate and season with sea salt flakes. Place eggs in a bowl and spread panko crumbs on a separate plate. Dip cutlets first into flour, then egg, shaking off excess in between. Gently press the cutlets into the panko crumbs, ensuring the meat is evenly coated on both sides. Refrigerate until required.
  • 02
  • For bulldog sauce, combine ingredients in a saucepan with 400ml of water. Bring to the boil then simmer for 1 hour, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat and discard the garlic. Purée with a blender or in a blender and pass through a fine sieve.
  • 03
  • Meanwhile, shave cabbage finely on a mandolin and soak in iced water for 1 hour.
  • 04
  • Preheat oven to 180C and warm grapeseed oil in a large frying pan. When oil is hot, carefully brown the cutlets in batches, turning once, until golden (3-4 minutes each side), adding more oil if required. Transfer to an oven tray and roast until cooked medium (5 minutes).
  • 05
  • Cut the cutlets in half, season to taste with sea salt flakes and serve with a pile of shredded cabbage and a pot of bulldog sauce.

At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people

Drink Suggestion

2013 Chapter Heathcote Malbec, Vic. Fleshy and spicy, the malbec can go toe-to-toe with the bulldog sauce.

Featured in

Apr 2014

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