"Ssäm means 'wrapped', or 'to wrap'. Koreans love to wrap things and apparently they've been doing so since the Goryeo kingdom, which began more than a thousand years ago," says Sears. "At the restaurant we cook the meat over charcoal, but seared in a hot pan is fine. The marinade recipe will make more than you need, but it lasts a long time and is a very good beef marinade. Ssäm can be wrapped in anything from lettuce leaves and pumpkin leaves, seaweed sheets to pressed sheets of dried fish or persimmon. Large shiso leaves ('kkaennip' in Korean) are particularly good." Begin this recipe a day ahead to marinate the beef.