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AA Gill's final column for Gourmet Traveller

We mourn the loss of a treasured member of the Gourmet Traveller family who passed awayon December 10, 2016. British writer AA Gill was a contributor to the magazine from July 2004. Gill’s travel column was as insightful as it was witty, funny as it was thoughtful – he was without peer. This is the final piece he wrote for Gourmet Traveller; it appears in the December issue, 2016. - Anthea Loucas Bosha, Editor

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Coconut crab and green mango salad

"This salad bursts with fresh, vibrant flavours and became a signature on my Paramount menus," says Christine Manfield. "I capitalised on using green mangoes in many dishes as they became more widely available. Blue swimmer crabs from South Australia have the most delicious sweet meat. It's best to buy them whole, cook them yourself and carefully pick the meat from the shell - a tedious task but it gives the best flavour. This entree also works well with spanner crab meat (you can buy this in packs ready cooked from reliable fishmongers). The sweetness of the crab, the richness of the fresh coconut and the sourness of green mango make a wonderful partnership. It's all about harmony on the palate and using the very best produce."

Choux pastries with pistachio cream


"Choux pastry is the standard test of a good pastry chef, and much of its success relies on the quality of the oven," says Bennett. "The Miele 'moisture plus' function certainly helps here. Nice is heaven on earth for pistachio lovers - you can buy them fresh, roasted in the shell and in paste form from any reasonable fruit shop. Combine crisp choux buns with pistachio cream, lemon zest and fresh strawberries for the ultimate pastry pleasure."

You'll need

To serve: finely grated lemon zest and fresh strawberries   Choux pastries 1 cup (250ml) water 125 gm butter, cut into small pieces 1 cup (250gm) plain flour, sifted 6 eggs, lightly beaten 100 gm hazelnuts, roasted, skins removed and crushed   Pistachio cream 200 gm shelled pistachios 100 gm unsalted roasted almonds 200 ml cream ¼ cup (55gm) caster sugar

Method

  • 01
  • Preheat the oven on the conventional setting to 170C. Line 2 baking trays with baking paper.
  • 02
  • To make the choux pastry, combine the water, butter and a pinch of sea salt in a large heavy-based saucepan over low heat (or induction setting 2) until the butter has melted. Increase heat to medium-high (or induction setting 7) until the mixture boils, stirring occasionally. When the mixture comes to the boil, take the pan off the heat, add the flour and mix with a wooden spoon until combined.
  • 03
  • Return the pan to medium heat (or induction 5) for about 2 minutes, stirring constantly, until the mixture comes together and starts to leave the side of the pan. Transfer the dough to an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and mix for a few minutes until the dough is no longer steaming hot, but is still warm.
  • 04
  • Gradually add the egg, making sure each addition is fully incorporated before adding the next. Scrape down the side of the bowl to ensure the dough is silky, smooth and uniform. Transfer dough to a piping bag fitted with a large plain nozzle and pipe your desired shapes onto the prepared baking trays. Immediately sprinkle with the crushed hazelnuts and bake until golden (20-30 minutes). Remove from the oven and cool completely on the trays.
  • 05
  • Meanwhile, to make the pistachio cream, scatter the pistachios and almonds into a dry frying pan and roast over medium heat for 2 minutes. Keep a close eye on them – they burn easily. Transfer the warm nuts to a food processor and blitz to form a smooth paste (scrape down the side of the bowl as needed). Set aside to cool in a mixing bowl.
  • 06
  • Once the nut paste is cool, lightly whip the cream and sugar together to ribbon stage. Gently fold a third of the cream into the nut paste, then gently fold in the rest. Cover and store in the fridge until you are ready to serve.
  • 07
  • Finely grate lemon zest over the pastries and serve with strawberries and pistachio cream.

Note This recipe is from Cooking All Over the World ($45, hbk), published by Lantern for Miele and is available exclusively from the Miele online shop from November 2014. It has been reproduced with minor GT style changes.


At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people

Featured in

Oct 2014

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