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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

Red mullet bouillabaisse


"Bouillabaisse is a fish soup originating from the French port city Marseille," says Cooke. "It was a stew made by fishermen using the bony rockfish, which they were unable to sell to restaurants or at markets. "The rouille is a traditional sauce served as a garnish. Bouillabaisse is a delicious way to use a mixture of seafood, or fish you may have leftover."

You'll need

1 red mullet (450gm), cleaned, cut into 3-4 pieces, plus 4 fillets extra (325gm each), halved ¼ tsp cayenne pepper 160 ml olive oil 75 gm each fennel, carrot, onion and celery, finely diced ¾ vine-ripened tomato, coarsely chopped 1 tbsp thyme 1 fresh bay leaf 700 gm (about 6) kipfler potatoes 100 ml dry white wine 75 ml Pernod 1 tbsp tomato paste 1.8 litres fish stock 1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced 1 kg clams 8 scallops, trimmed 4 flathead fillets (250gm)   Rouille 50 gm red capsicum (about ¼), seeds removed 1 tbsp olive oil 1 kipfler potato (120gm), peeled and diced 150 ml fish stock 2 tsp saffron threads 1 large hard-boiled egg yolk 3 egg yolks 3 large anchovy fillets 2 garlic cloves ½ tsp Dijon mustard 70 ml mild-flavoured extra-virgin olive oil ½ tsp Sherry vinegar, or to taste

Method

  • 01
  • Dust whole mullet pieces with cayenne pepper, heat 40ml olive oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat and fry mullet until lightly browned on all sides (4-6 minutes), then remove from pan and set aside. Add another 100ml oil to pan with fennel, carrot, onion, celery, tomato and herbs, cover and cook until fennel, carrot and celery are just tender (5-7 minutes). Meanwhile, dice 350gm potatoes then add to pan with mullet and wine, and reduce by half (5-6 minutes). Add Pernod and tomato paste, cover with fish stock, then bring to the boil, reduce heat and simmer until potatoes are soft (30-40 minutes). Transfer to a blender in batches and process until smooth, strain through a fine sieve into a clean saucepan and season to taste.
  • 02
  • Meanwhile, for rouille, preheat oven to 180C. Place capsicum on a small roasting pan, drizzle with olive oil, season to taste and roast until tender (20-30 minutes). Bring potato, fish stock and saffron threads to the simmer in a saucepan over low-medium heat and cook until potato is tender and liquid has almost evaporated (15-20 minutes). Remove from heat and set aside. When cool enough to handle, peel capsicum and combine in a blender with cooked and raw egg yolks, anchovies, garlic and mustard, blend until smooth, then gradually add extra-virgin olive oil in a steady stream while blending. Add Sherry vinegar, blend to combine and season to taste.
  • 03
  • Cook remaining potatoes in boiling salted water until tender (15-20 minutes), drain, peel, thinly slice and keep warm.
  • 04
  • Heat remaining olive oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat and cook sliced fennel until tender (4-6 minutes).
  • 05
  • Bring soup to the simmer, add clams, scallops and fillets and simmer until seafood is cooked and clams open (5-6 minutes). Divide among bowls with fennel and boiled, sliced potatoes, and serve with rouille and sliced baguette to the side.

At A Glance

  • Serves 4 - 6 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 4 - 6 people

Drink Suggestion

2013 Sorrenberg Gamay, Beechworth.

Featured in

Oct 2014

Recipes (12 )

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