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AA Gill's final column for Gourmet Traveller

We mourn the loss of a treasured member of the Gourmet Traveller family who passed awayon December 10, 2016. British writer AA Gill was a contributor to the magazine from July 2004. Gill’s travel column was as insightful as it was witty, funny as it was thoughtful – he was without peer. This is the final piece he wrote for Gourmet Traveller; it appears in the December issue, 2016. - Anthea Loucas Bosha, Editor

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Coconut crab and green mango salad

"This salad bursts with fresh, vibrant flavours and became a signature on my Paramount menus," says Christine Manfield. "I capitalised on using green mangoes in many dishes as they became more widely available. Blue swimmer crabs from South Australia have the most delicious sweet meat. It's best to buy them whole, cook them yourself and carefully pick the meat from the shell - a tedious task but it gives the best flavour. This entree also works well with spanner crab meat (you can buy this in packs ready cooked from reliable fishmongers). The sweetness of the crab, the richness of the fresh coconut and the sourness of green mango make a wonderful partnership. It's all about harmony on the palate and using the very best produce."

Whole roasted fish with potatoes


"When roasting a whole fish, the best types to choose are wild sea bass, large bream, red mullet and John Dory," says Ruth Rogers.

You'll need

8 large waxy potatoes, peeled and quartered 60 ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling 3-4 oregano sprigs, leaves picked from half 2 lemons (skin on: 1 cut into 1cm pieces; 1 thinly sliced), plus wedges to serve 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 John Dory or sea bream (about 2kg) 150 ml white wine, such as pinot bianco, verdicchio or vermentino

Method

  • 01
  • Preheat oven to 250C (or as high as possible). Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil, add potato, cook until just tender (5 minutes), then drain and transfer to a bowl. Add oil, most of the picked oregano leaves, lemon pieces and garlic, season to taste, mix well, then transfer to a roasting pan large enough to hold the fish snugly.
  • 02
  • Stuff fish with oregano sprigs and lemon slices, then season inside and out. Place fish on potatoes, drizzle with oil and roast until fish is just cooked (20-28 minutes; see note). Remove fish and keep warm. Pour wine over potatoes and roast until potatoes are golden (10–15 minutes). Remove from heat and scatter with remaining oregano.
  • 03
  • Lift flesh from fish and serve with potatoes, the juices from the pan and lemon wedges.
Note To test if the fish is cooked, insert a fork into the thickest part of the fish. If the flesh can be flaked away from the bones, it's cooked.

At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people

Featured in

Mar 2015

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