"This dish is centred on the wood-burning oven at Franklin," says Moyle. "We use the smoke and dry heat three times in this recipe and the subtlety of the smoke is difficult to replicate. If you have a wood-burning oven at your disposal, I recommend processing the marrow in it, then imparting a fine smoke to the rice by finishing the dish in the oven."
Note Koshihikari rice is available from Japanese grocers. If it's unavailable, substitute another good sushi rice.