"In Italy, chicken is still considered rather special - so much so that it is used in relatively few dishes compared to other meats," says Stefano Manfredi. "In Italian supermarkets, one is struck by the quality of the birds and their presentation as well as their relatively high price. The heads and feet are almost always left intact (these give great flavour to broths and stocks) and the birds are differentiated by type - roosters, hens, young, old, roasters, boilers and so on. Italy consumes less chicken than most EU countries, so the pressure to produce a huge amount of cheap chicken meat is not as great as it is in Australia. Use the best-quality chicken you can find - I suggest organic or at least pasture-raised."