Healthy Eating

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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Carpaccio of kangaroo with beetroot and native fruits


"This dish is inspired by traditional dishes of northern Italy where game meat like venison is paired with fruit, and sweet and sour flavours," says Jason Saxby. "I like to think that if the first person who created that combination of wild game with fruit was in Australia at the time, the dish would taste like this." At Osteria di Russo & Russo, Saxby sprinkles the dish with dehydrated beetroot powder made from the beetroot trimmings to minimise waste.

You'll need

250 gm kangaroo fillet (see note), trimmed of sinew and patted dry with paper towels 8 quandongs, halved (and defrosted if frozen; see note) 5 radicchio leaves, cut into 4cm rounds with a biscuit cutter To serve: extra-virgin olive oil, finely grated horseradish and purple basil leaves   Salt-baked beetroot 200 gm Murray River pink salt flakes, plus extra, to serve 100 ml olive oil 1 tbsp each coarsely chopped thyme and rosemary 1 large beetroot (about 300gm), scrubbed and trimmed without exposing flesh   Native currant and beetroot agrodolce 350 gm (about 3) small beetroot, trimmed, peeled and quartered 125 gm native currants (see note) 125 ml (½ cup) merlot vinegar or other aged sweet red wine vinegar 60 gm caster sugar   Illawarra plum purée 100 gm Illawarra plums, coarsely chopped (see note) 25 ml merlot vinegar or other aged sweet red wine vinegar, plus extra to season 25 gm caster sugar 20 gm cultured butter (such as Pepe Saya), diced

Method

  • 01
  • Roll kangaroo fillet tightly in plastic wrap to form a tight log, seal ends as tightly as you can, and freeze (at least 2 hours). Unwrap and slice meat very thinly, then place in a single layer on a piece of baking paper, cover and refrigerate.
  • 02
  • For salt-baked beetroot, preheat oven to 160C. Combine salt, oil, herbs, 1 tsp coarsely ground black pepper and 60ml water in a bowl. Spread over a piece of foil large enough to enclose beetroot, wrap beetroot and bake directly on an oven rack until beetroot is tender when pierced with a metal skewer (1¼-1½ hours). Cool in foil (1½ hours), then unwrap, discard salt crust and wash and peel beetroot, then cut into 2.5cm-thick slices. Cut as many rounds out of each slice as possible with a 4cm round cutter, then slice crossways into thin rounds. Reserve trimmings and refrigerate rounds until required.
  • 03
  • For native currant and beetroot agrodolce, juice beetroot in an electric juicer, place 125ml in a saucepan with currants, vinegar and sugar, bring to the boil, then set aside to infuse for 30 minutes. Strain through a fine strainer, pressing currants with the back of a ladle to extract as much juice as possible. Reserve 100ml liquid, return remaining liquid to a small saucepan, bring to a simmer over medium-high heat and reduce to a sticky syrup (8-10 minutes). Set aside at room temperature.
  • 04
  • Bring reserved agrodolce liquid to a simmer in a separate small saucepan, add quandong and set aside to cool.
  • 05
  • For Illawara plum purée, coarsely chop 100gm reserve beetroot trimmings (discard remaining), then combine with plums, vinegar, sugar and just enough water to cover in a small saucepan. Place a round of baking paper directly on top, then simmer over medium heat until water has almost evaporated, and plums and beetroot are tender (6-8 minutes). Cool briefly, then process in a small blender, adding butter gradually, until smooth. Season to taste with vinegar and sea salt.
  • 06
  • To serve, drizzle kangaroo with olive oil and season to taste, then arrange on serving plates, alternating kangaroo, beetroot and radicchio in a circle, spoon on quandongs, dot with plum purée, scatter with horseradish and purple basil leaves, then drizzle with agrodolce dressing and olive oil to taste.

Note Kangaroo is available from Harris Farm Markets and select butchers and supermarkets. For quandongs, native currants and Illawara plums head to outbackpridefresh.com.au to find your local distributor.


At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people

Drink Suggestion

“Vie di Romans ‘Dessimis’ Pinot Grigio, of which we have the 2013 vintage,” says co-owner Marc Russo. “Drastically different from the expected pinot grigio style, this is an ancient style of pinot grigio with a slight blush, a rich, oily texture and a complex yet clean palate. Vie di Romans, a producer from Friuli, is famed for its textured, complex and often highly aromatic white wines.”

Featured in

Sep 2015

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