Healthy Eating

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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

David Thompson's chicken stir-fried with red curry, green peppercorns and holy basil


"Chop the bird into pieces - on the bone is even better," says Long Chim and Nahm chef David Thompson. "Legs and wings are the best cuts to use. Fry and brown the chicken well before adding the paste - it will give the dish a more rounded flavour and an attractive colour. The red curry paste is the only curry paste I would cook in a wok. I like to sneak a little pork fat into the mix for a richer curry."

You'll need

60 ml (¼ cup) melted lard, chicken fat or white sesame oil 2-3 chicken Marylands (about 600gm-800gm), cut through the bone into 3cm-4cm pieces 45 ml fish sauce, or to taste Pinch of chilli powder Pinch of ground dry-roasted coriander seeds (see note) 1 tsp light palm sugar, crushed Chopped green chilli, thinly sliced garlic and fish sauce, to serve Green peppercorn sprigs, picked (see note), and steamed rice, to serve   Red curry paste 25 gm (about 15) long dried red chillies, halved, seeds removed, soaked in hot water for 30-40 minutes 2 tbsp sliced lemongrass (white part only) 2 tsp coarsely chopped, peeled galangal ½ tsp finely grated kaffir lime rind (see note) 1-2 red shallots, coarsely chopped 2-3 Thai garlic cloves, crushed (see note) ½ tsp gapi (see note) Large pinch of ground dry-roasted coriander seeds (see note) Pinch of ground dry-roasted cumin seeds, (see note) Pinch of ground white pepper   Garlic and chilli paste 12 Thai garlic cloves 5 gm piece grachai (see note), plus extra, thinly sliced to serve 3 small Thai scud chillies (see note) Pinch of holy basil buds, plus holy basil leaves to serve (see note) ½ kaffir lime leaf, finely chopped, plus extra leaves torn to serve

Method

  • 01
  • For red curry paste, drain chillies and coarsely chop, then pound to fine paste with a pinch of salt with a mortar and pestle. Add remaining ingredients one at a time, pounding to a paste before adding the next.
  • 02
  • For garlic paste, coarsely pound ingredients with a pinch of salt in a mortar and pestle and set aside.
  • 03
  • Heat fat or oil in a wok over medium-high heat until hot, add chicken and stir-fry until coloured and aromatic (5-7 minutes). Add garlic paste and fry until golden (1-2 minutes). Season with 2 tbsp fish sauce and simmer for a few moments while turning and coating the chicken. Add 60gm red curry paste (remaining will keep refrigerated for a week) and simmer over low heat until reduced (1-2 minutes). Add extra torn kaffir lime leaves, chilli powder and ground coriander, then season to taste with palm sugar and fish sauce. Add 250ml water and simmer, adding more wateras necessary, until chicken is cooked, and curry sauce is thick, dry, and tastes rich and spicy, with quite a lot of oil on the surface (15-20 minutes).
  • 04
  • Combine chopped chilli, garlic and remaining fish sauce to taste and serve alongside stir-fried chicken garnished with extra grachai, green peppercorns and holy basil leaves, and with steamed rice.

At A Glance

  • Serves 4 - 6 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 4 - 6 people

Additional Notes

Thai garlic is smaller and sweeter than other varieties of garlic, and is available from Thai food stores. If it’s unavailable, substitute small garlic cloves. Dry-roast whole seeds, then grind in a spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle.To dry-roast spices, cook the spices in a dry pan, stirring continuously over medium-high heat until they’re fragrant. The cooking time varies depending on the spices used. Peppercorn sprigs, kaffir limes, gapi (Thai shrimp paste), grachai (Thai wild ginger), scud chillies and holy basil are all available from Thai grocers.

Drink Suggestion

Young demi-sec Vouvray, such as Domaine Huet.

Featured in

Sep 2016

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