"Most of the dishes at Franklin are developed through necessity," says Franklin's David Moyle. The key source of heat in his kitchen is the wood-fired Scotch oven, so Moyle and the team design the food (and the menus) to make the most of it. "When we make this at the restaurant, we smoke the bones in the chamber at the start of the firing process to capture the low temperature and smoke." Moyle moved to Tasmania in 2011 to cook at The Stackings at Peppermint Bay, before upping sticks for Hobart to open Franklin in 2014. Good as the island state's produce may be, he says it comes in two forms: "glut or nothing", so getting serious about preserving methods (such as smoking) is again as much a matter of necessity in his kitchen as choice. "We use the wood fire while it's cooling down to dry ingredients: oysters, calamari scraps, fish frames, seaweed. All of these add to our larder, which gives us flexibility and an ability to create depth of flavour."