Guy Grossi, whose restaurants number Merchant and Ombra, as well as the historic Grossi Florentino, is the Melbourne-born son of a Milanese chef. This is one of his father's recipes. "I remember him cooking it when we were children," says Grossi. "When we cooked together later in life I always tried to replicate those flavours in my own attempts of the dish. I like to think my version is good but never like Dad's. The lamb is roasted well and juicy with lots of olive oil and white wine. It was a popular item on the menu a few years ago; I'd serve it with pepperonata or polenta. It brings me back to those never-ending festive afternoons, so you may see it appear on the menu from time to time." Grossi uses a whole Flinders Island suckling lamb for this recipe, which can be ordered from good butchers. We've substituted leg and rack for a mix of textures and the savour that the bones contribute to the finished dish.