"Here in Paris, I use the native European écrevisse, which is very similar to our yabbies, only a little smaller," says chef Shaun Kelly. "I have very fond memories as a kid of using an old Milo tin to catch yabbies in the creek at the back of my parents' house, and every time I have écrevisse here, I'm reminded of that. The chilli oil makes more than you need, but it's a perfect fridge staple to add to almost anything. I use piment d'Espelette - it's got great colour and aroma; otherwise a more traditional version would be with Sichuan peppercorns."
Start this recipe a day ahead to make and infuse the chilli oil.