At Loam, Aaron Turner turned heads, bringing a Noma-like sensibility to cooking the food of Victoria's Bellarine Peninsula. Now at Igni, in Geelong, he has taken it up a notch, cooking with fire to bring a greater sense (and taste) of immediacy to pristine ingredients, while simultaneously making the larger experience more relaxed. It's a great way to dine. "This marron dish is all about letting the fire and smoke do the work, setting the marron flesh and charring the leaves for flavour," says Turner. "The finger lime and Jersey cream add acid and fat and bring it all together."