Daniel Puskas cut a dash through some of Sydney's finest restaurants before opening Sixpenny in the neighbourhood of Stanmore. One of Sixpenny's many pleasures is the gentle sense of dislocation between the sleepy, genteel suburban setting and the radical things playing out on the plate. They're frequently marked by genuinely inventive uses of produce, and are always presented with an eye for elegance. "I like to make things appear simple, but once you start to eat a dish you can see how complex it becomes," says Puskas. "The sauce looks like a classic jus, but is in fact purely vegetal." Start this recipe a day ahead to drain the pumpkin juice. Serve with roasted leeks or a simple green salad.