As I am Ligurian it was only natural to make this pasta with silverbeet," says Lucio Galletto, "following our tradition of combining ingredients of the land and the sea." As essential as Liguria is to the DNA of Lucio's, the art-laden Sydney landmark Galletto opened in Paddington in 1983, it's always been as much about front-of-house style and culture as it has the kitchen - Storrier, Olsen and Blackman are as important a part of Lucio's history as Artusi, Boni and Apicius. "Italian has come a long way in Australia," says Galletto. "All that anyone used to eat was spaghetti Bolognese." Three decades later this remains Lucio's most popular dish.