"At Pheasant Farm in the '80s, in fact for the whole of the nearly 15 years of the Pheasant Farm restaurant, I changed the menu so much that we were still writing the menu of the day just as the first guest arrived, much to Colin's frustration," says Maggie Beer. "It was very much a game restaurant, with pheasant the star dish, but there would be hare, rabbit, pigeon, quail, venison or kangaroo at any one time as well, so it was very important to have a vegetable entrée to balance the meal. Spring meant beautiful young sorrel; the really sweet lemon thyme and the flowers were all part of it. We grew our own sorrel, thyme and parsley, of course, and always had duck eggs for the pasta. This is a very simple dish, with the sorrel butter a great counterpoint to the richness of the duck-egg pasta. I love the piquant flavour of sorrel at any time."