Healthy Eating

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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Restaurant Hubert's Clams à la Normande


"Normande sauce is generally a fish velouté with cream and butter, but in this recipe I've replaced the fish velouté with dashi, which sneaks some extra underlying umami in there," says Daniel Pepperell. "Pour the fries on top for extra fun eating and to soak up the sauce."

You'll need

2 (500gm) starchy potatoes (such as russet Burbank), peeled and cut into julienne Vegetable oil, for deep-frying ¼ cup (firmly packed) flat-leaf parsley 5 thyme sprigs, leaves only 50 ml white wine 1 kg clams or pipis, cleaned 150 gm butter, diced Lemon juice, to taste 1 tbsp chives, cut into batons 10 chervil sprigs 10 tarragon leaves   Dashi 2 pieces konbu 2 large handfuls (40gm) katsuobushi (see note) 1 snapper head (or head of other white fish) 1 tbsp soy sauce, or to taste

Method

  • 01
  • For dashi, simmer konbu and 500ml water in a large saucepan over low heat until infused (50-60 minutes). Remove from heat, add katsuobushi, cover pan and set aside to infuse (20-25 minutes). Strain stock through a fine sieve into a clean large saucepan, pressing gently on the katsuobushi with a ladle. Heat a char-grill pan over high heat, add snapper head and grill until charred, then add to konbu stock. Simmer stock gently over low heat until fish head flavours stock (45 minutes). Strain through a fine sieve and season with soy sauce. Reserve 300ml. Remaining fish stock will keep frozen for 3 months.
  • 02
  • Rinse potatoes thoroughly under cold water and pat dry. Heat oil in a deep-fryer to 170C and deep-fry potato in batches until crisp and golden (4-6 minutes; be careful, hot oil will spit). Drain on paper towels and keep warm. Fry parsley and thyme until crisp (30 seconds), then crumble over potato and season to taste with salt.
  • 03
  • Heat a saucepan over high heat, add wine and reserved stock and bring to the boil. Add clams, cover, and cook just until the clams start to open (2-4 minutes). Remove from heat, remove clams with a slotted spoon and transfer to serving bowls. Gradually whisk butter into stock to form a shiny sauce, then season to taste with lemon juice, and salt and pepper. Gently stir the herbs into the sauce and spoon sauce over clams. Serve hot with fries.

At A Glance

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At A Glance

Additional Notes

Katsuobushi, dried bonito flakes, are available from Japanese providores and select Asian grocers.

Drink Suggestion

Brasserie De Saint-Sylvestre 3 Monts Flanders Golden Ale, France.

Featured in

April 2016

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