"Grilling the shiitakes before they're pickled intensifies the
flavour and adds a new dimension," says Pepperell. "Carrot, fennel
and cauliflower also work well in the absence of shiitakes."
250 mldry white wine200 mlwhite wine vinegar200 mlextra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve2 tspcaster sugar2fresh bay leaves2 tspcoriander seeds2 tspcelery seeds1 tspfennel seeds¼ tspblack peppercorns400 gmshiitake mushroomsOlive oil, for brushingBay oil¼ cup(firmly packed) torn flat-leaf parsley5fresh bay leaves, torn125 ml (½ cup)grapeseed oil
Bring wine, vinegar, oil, sugar, bay leaves, spices, 250ml water and a generous pinch of salt to a simmer in a saucepan, stirring until sugar dissolves, then reduce liquid by half (15-20 minutes).
Meanwhile, heat a char-grill pan over high heat. Brush mushrooms with olive oil, then grill until charred, turning once (1-2 minutes each side). Transfer to a jar or heatproof container and pour on hot pickling liquid. Cool to room temperature, cover, then refrigerate until lightly pickled (at least 1 hour and up to 3 days).
For bay oil, blanch parsley and bay until bright green (30 seconds), then refresh in iced water. Drain herbs and pat dry, then blend with oil in a blender until a fine green oil forms. Transfer to a small saucepan and whisk continuously over low heat until oil reaches 70C (4-5 minutes). Strain oil through a coffee filter paper, or a double layer of muslin, and discard solids. You’ll have more oil than you need here; it will keep refrigerated for 3 weeks and can be used in other dishes.
To serve, remove mushrooms from pickling liquid with a slotted spoon and arrange on plates. Spoon on a little pickling liquid, season to taste and finish with a drizzle of bay leaf oil.