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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Bodega's fish fingers


"Fish fingers have been on the menu from day one," says Abrahanowicz and Milgate. "We started off using sardines, but now it's morphed into kingfish with mojama and cuttlefish ceviche." 

You'll need

4 cuttlefish (about 600gm) 4 thick slices levain or sourdough 2 garlic cloves, halved Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling 250 gm piece sashimi-grade Hiramasa kingfish, skin removed 2 tbsp lime juice 2 tsp finely chopped coriander ¼ small onion, finely sliced Finely grated mojama (optional; see note), to serve

Method

  • 01
  • To prepare the cuttlefish, pull out the tentacles, then cut just underneath the eyes. Discard the beak and save the tentacles to fry up later as a snack. Discard the eyes and innards, and pull any cartilage from the body and discard. Remove the skin from the hood (discard), then rinse and dice the hood and set aside in a bowl.
  • 02
  • Heat a char-grill pan to high and grill the bread on both sides until well charred (5-7 minutes). Rub with the cut side of garlic, drizzle generously with extra-virgin olive oil and season with sea salt flakes to taste, then cut each slice in half.
  • 03
  • Slice kingfish thinly across the grain and place on toast. Add lime juice, coriander and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil to the cuttlefish, season to taste, stir to combine, then spoon onto kingfish. Scatter with a little sliced onion and serve topped with grated mojama.

Mojama, salt-cured, air-dried tuna from Spain, is available from Encasa Deli in Sydney and select delicatessens. 


At A Glance

  • Serves 8 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 8 people

Drink Suggestion

La Goya manzanilla

Featured in

Jul 2016

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