Stefano Manfredi's first home in Australia was the Bonegilla migrant camp in north-eastern Victoria where he and his family were "dumped" when they arrived from Lombardy in 1961. Fifty years and a bevy of acclaimed restaurants later and the Manfredi name is synonymous with intelligent Italian cooking. "The success of this dish, as with all Italian cooking, is reliant on the quality of the ingredients," says Manfredi. "Don't be tempted to substitute balsamic for the red wine vinegar. There is far too much balsamic vinegar used these days and it should stop. Really."