"This is a riff on a dish we had on the Alinea opening menu that involved beetroot and smoking cinnamon," says Grant Achatz. "Brown spices and beets are a proven combination, but the kid in me wanted to involve some whimsy. During my childhood I hated the spicy cinnamon chewing gum known as Big Red, but as an adult I enjoy it. I basically replicate that sensation with the simple addition of chilli - I use dried Korean chilli threads. Here we turn the eating utensil, in this case the cinnamon skewer, into the equivalent of an incense stick that you eat from."