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Aløft

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Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

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Poires Belle Hélène


You'll need

400 gm caster sugar 200 ml dessert wine 1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped 1 piece of thinly peeled lemon rind, plus juice of 1 lemon 8 pears, such as beurre Bosc or William Bartlett To serve: crystallised violets (optional) To serve: vanilla ice-cream   Chocolate sauce 200 gm dark chocolate (55% cocoa solids) 150 ml pouring cream

Method

  • 01
  • Stir sugar, dessert wine, vanilla bean, vanilla seeds, lemon peel and lemon juice in a saucepan over medium heat until sugar dissolves, then bring to the boil. Reduce heat to low, add pears, cover with a round of baking paper and poach until tender (25-35 minutes). Turn off heat, cool pears in liquid, strain (discard liquid) and set aside.
  • 02
  • Meanwhile, for chocolate sauce, stir chocolate and cream in a bowl placed over a saucepan of simmering water until melted and smooth (2-5 minutes). Pour warm chocolate sauce over poached pears, scatter with crystallised violets and serve with ice-cream.

What is it about the French language? Translate even the simplest thing into French and suddenly it's imbued with an air of sophistication, a certain je ne sais quoi, if you will. Take poires Belle Hélène. A delightful dish, yes, but ultimately a simple one. Described in English - pears with chocolate sauce - it brings to mind a bastardised version of the dish served at many a '70s function centre (canned pears with supermarket chocolate topping, anyone?). But it is indeed a classic, having withstood the test of time since its invention in 1864 by the esteemed chef Auguste Escoffier, who named the dish to mark the premiere of the operetta La Belle Hélène, composed by Jacques Offenbach, and based on the story of Helen of Troy but also a satirical skewering of high society in the time of Napoleon III.

The success of the dish relies on perfectly poached pears, which in turn depend on selecting the perfect pears for poaching - ripe, yet firm, with no tinge of green in the skin, nor any bumps or bruises. The choice is yours when it comes to variety, but the gloriously golden beurre Bosc has an appropriately elegant shape and a beautiful texture when poached. Poach the pears gently, only just simmering them, for best results, and turn off the heat just before the pears reach the perfect degree of done-ness, because they'll continue to cook slightly as they cool in the syrup.

Equally important is a glossily decadent chocolate sauce, made with the best quality chocolate - there's nowhere to hide here. Vanilla ice-cream is the classical accompaniment, and it makes sense to continue the quality theme and make your own or find a great one flecked with real vanilla seeds. Escoffier scattered his dessert with crystallised violets (available at many specialist cooking and baking shops), although flaked almonds quickly became the more common garnish, and we also like the pears unadorned.

This dish illustrates the beauty of simplicity - no toffee cages, no foams, no crazy out-there flavour combinations. Parfait, non?


At A Glance

  • Serves 8 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 8 people

Featured in

Mar 2012

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