Note Mustard cress is sold in punnets from select greengrocers. Smoked river trout fillets are available from select fishmongers or specialty food stores.
Why isn't there more marsanne planted in vineyards across Australia? As well-known central Victorian winery Tahbilk has been demonstrating for decades, the grape makes a wine that's not only refreshingly perfumed and lemony when young but develops wonderfully satisfying, honeyed, toasty complexity with bottle age. It's an amazingly versatile food wine, too: this dish is delicious with marsanne at any stage of its maturity. The sweetness of the beetroot, sourness of the onions and lemon in the dressing echo a crisp young marsanne, while the smokiness of the fish, heat of the mustard and richness of the honey would handle the bottle-age characters of an older wine. Luckily, you don't even need a cellar of your own to appreciate bottle-aged marsanne, as the Tahbilk winery always stashes away a healthy swag of the wine each year, eventually trickling it out in cellar door and selected retailers after it's had a chance to pick up some complexity. - Max Allen