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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Perfect match: weisswurst with beer-braised onion and soused cabbage


You'll need

4 weisswurst sausages (see note) 4 soft long rolls, split lengthways To serve: German-style mustard   Beer-braised onions 1 tbsp olive oil 3 onions, thinly sliced into rings 250 ml wheat beer 2 tbsp brown sugar   Soused cabbage 200 gm Savoy cabbage, finely shredded 60 ml (¼ cup) white wine vinegar 40 gm (¼ cup) currants 1 tbsp white sugar ¼ tsp ground mixed spice

Method

  • 01
  • For beer-braised onions, heat olive oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent (7-10 minutes). Add beer and sugar, stirring until liquid has evaporated (2-3 minutes). Keep hot.
  • 02
  • For soused cabbage, place cabbage in a non-reactive bowl and set aside. Bring vinegar, currants, sugar and mixed spice to the boil in a saucepan over medium heat, stirring to dissolve sugar (3-5 minutes). Pour over cabbage, stir to combine, season generously to taste and set aside until pickled (3-5 minutes). Pour off and discard excess liquid before serving.
  • 03
  • Meanwhile, heat a char-grill on high heat. Add sausages and cook, turning occasionally, until cooked through (5-7 minutes). Divide sausages, beer-braised onions and soused cabbage among rolls and serve with mustard.

Note Weisswurst is a Bavarian veal and pork sausage, available from select butchers and delicatessens.


Most of the time I reach for a nice bottle of wine when I sit down at the table to eat. I find wine the best accompaniment to food - its acidity, vinosity, complex flavour and alcoholic warmth the perfect foil for a vast array of different dishes. But sometimes, with certain kinds of foods, no wine can come close to matching the deliciousness of beer. This is one of those occasions. Weisswurst, or white sausage, with its soft texture and delicate flavours, could have been designed specifically to accompany wheat beer, especially if you add hot, salty or sour condiments. Wheat beer, as the name suggests, is brewed with wheat, as opposed to the malted barley used for most other beers. This gives a lighter perfume, a cloudy dryness and often a slightly sour finish to the brew. White snag, white beer. You know it makes sense.


At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people

Featured in

Feb 2009

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