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Recipes by Christine Manfield
21.02.2017

As the '90s dawned, darling chefs were pushing the boundaries of cooking in this country. A young Christine Manfield, just starting out at this heady time, soon became part of the generation that redefined modern Australian cuisine. She shares some of her timeless signatures from the era.

Cirrus, Sydney review
20.02.2017

Cirrus moves the Bentley team down to the water and into more lighthearted territory without sacrificing polish, writes Pat Nourse.

How to grow rocket
20.02.2017

A vegetable patch without rocket lacks a great staple, according to Mat Pember. The perennial performer is a leaf for all seasons.

50BestTalks brings World’s best chefs to Sydney and Melbourne
16.02.2017

Massimo Bottura and more are coming to the Sydney Opera House.

Toby Wilson, Sean McManus and Jon Kennedy to open Bad Hombres
16.02.2017

Expect Mexican-Asian flavours and an all-natural wine list from two of Sydney’s edgier operators.

Local Knowledge: Moscow
16.02.2017

Director of Shakespeare theatre company Cheek by Jowl Declan Donnellan walks us through the essential sights and his favourite cafes and restaurants of his hometown.

On the Pass: Danielle Rensonnet
16.02.2017

Bellota chef Danielle Rensonnet talks us through the current menu at the restaurant and her favourite summer ingredients.

Melbourne's Tomato Festival is back in 2017
15.02.2017

Returning for another year, Melbourne’s Tomato Festival is ripe with cooking demonstrations, talks, and produce stalls dedicated to plump produce.

Perfect match: gougères and late-disgorged sparkling wine


You'll need

45 gm butter, coarsely chopped 150 gm (1 cup) plain flour 4 eggs 2 tsp thyme 140 gm Gruyère, coarsely grated 150 gm goat’s curd

Method

  • 01
  • Preheat oven to 190C. Bring butter, 250ml water and a large pinch of salt to the boil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add flour and beat with a wooden spoon until mixture pulls away from sides of pan (2-3 minutes). Remove from heat, add eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition, then stir in thyme and 120gm Gruyère. Spoon tablespoons of mixture onto a tray lined with baking paper, scatter with remaining Gruyère and bake until golden (10-12 minutes).
  • 02
  • Pierce a small hole in the base of each gougère with a small sharp knife, return to oven and bake until almost dry (6-8 minutes). Cool slightly.
  • 03
  • Whisk goat’s curd in an electric mixer until light and fluffy, then transfer to a piping bag fitted with a 1cm nozzle. Pipe goat’s curd into the base of each gougères and serve warm.

Note Gougères can be made a day ahead and stored in an airtight container. Reheat at 190C for 5 minutes before filling and serving.


A big plate of puffy gougères is a classic accompaniment to Champagne and sparkling wine. The deep savoury quality of the cheese in the pastry, enhanced by the baking, matches perfectly with the yeastiness of the fizz. It's all about umami, the fifth taste, most commonly associated with the back-palate satisfaction of soy sauce: both cheese and Champagne are rich in umami, so putting them together in your mouth is a double whammy of savoury satisfaction. In this recipe for gougères, the flavour and taste are boosted considerably by the addition of thyme, rich Gruyère and tangy goat's curd. A pretty, light and frothy bubbly - a blanc de blancs, say, or a young vintage Champagne - might not have enough weight to match the cheesy puffs, so I'd recommend a late-disgorged sparkling. As you know, Champagne and Champagne-style wines are bubbly thanks to a secondary fermentation in the bottle. After the yeast cells have done their job, they settle as lees or sediment inside the bottle, eventually breaking down and releasing yeasty aromas and umami-rich tastes into the wine. The longer the bottle sits in the cool of the cellar before it is disgorged (to separate the lees from the clear wine), the finer, deeper and more complex the flavour will be.


At A Glance

  • Serves 8 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 8 people

Featured in

Jul 2011

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