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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Perfect match: aged whites with spicy chicken


You'll need

1 chicken (about 1.8kg) To serve: steamed rice, thinly sliced long green chillies and shallow-fried fresh curry leaves (optional)   Spiced yoghurt marinade 150 ml Greek-style yoghurt ½ onion, finely chopped 3 garlic cloves, chopped 15 gm (3cm piece) ginger, finely chopped ½ tsp each ground turmeric, ground chilli and ground cayenne pepper ¼ tsp garam masala 60 ml (¼ cup) olive oil   Potato and ginger stuffing 200 gm Dutch cream potatoes 85 gm frozen peas, defrosted 2 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 1 long green chilli, finely chopped 5 gm (1cm piece) ginger, finely chopped ½ cup (loosely packed) coriander, coarsely chopped   Mint chutney 1½ cups (loosely packed) mint leaves ½ tbsp tamarind concentrate mixed with 40ml water, strained 2 tbsp finely chopped Spanish onion 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 5 gm (1cm piece) ginger, finely chopped 1 long green chilli, thinly sliced ½ tsp caster sugar

Method

  • 01
  • For spiced yoghurt marinade, process ingredients (except oil) in a food processor until a paste forms, then stir in oil.
  • 02
  • Place chicken in a non-reactive container, rub all over with marinade and refrigerate overnight for flavours to develop.
  • 03
  • For potato and ginger stuffing, place potato and enough cold salted water to just cover in a saucepan over medium-high heat and boil until tender (15-18 minutes). Drain well, set aside to cool, coarsely chop and set aside. Blanch peas until bright green (30 seconds), refresh and set aside. Heat oil in a frying pan, add onion and stir occasionally until translucent (5-6 minutes). Add chilli and fry until fragrant (1 minute). Add potato and cook until golden (7-10 minutes). Add ginger, season to taste, set aside to cool, then stir in peas and coriander.
  • 04
  • Preheat oven to 220C. Stuff potato and ginger stuffing into chicken cavity, truss legs and roast until just golden (20 minutes). Cover with foil, reduce heat to 160C and roast until almost cooked through (30 minutes). Remove foil, cook until golden and cooked through (20 minutes), then set aside to rest (15 minutes).
  • 05
  • For mint chutney, process ingredients in a food processor and season to taste.
  • 06
  • Scatter rice with chilli and curry leaves and serve with chicken and mint chutney.

Note You'll need to begin this recipe a day ahead to marinate the chicken.


We are very lucky in this country. Well, those who like their white wines with some bottle age are, at least. A number of our best wineries lay down some of their best whites each vintage to be released five, even 10 years later, when the wines have transformed from light, flighty, nervy young things into mature, rounded, far more satisfying drinks. Some winemakers provide this cellaring service with quantities large enough that when the wines do emerge from their dark slumber, they're widely available at very attractive prices. A bottle-aged sémillon, riesling or marsanne is exactly what you need for this spicy, fragrant dish, as they have heady aroma, rich vinosity and refreshing acidity. The wine's grapy texture is matched with the dense flesh of the chook and spuds; its citrusy perfume and acidity will take care of the chilli, coriander and yoghurt; and its bottle-aged toasty characters will echo the earthiness of the turmeric.


At A Glance

  • Serves 6 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 6 people

Featured in

Apr 2013

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