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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

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O Tama Carey's fried eggs with seeni sambol, coconut and turmeric

"I first cooked a version of this dish - inspired by the excellent deep-fried egg dish at Billy Kwong - while working at a restaurant in Sri Lanka," says O Tama Carey. "The lattice-like eggs are doused in a creamy turmeric curry sauce and topped with seeni sambol, a sweet-spiced caramelised onion relish. This dish is equally perfect for an indulgent breakfast as it is served as part of a larger meal." The recipe for the seeni sambol makes more than you need, but to get the right balance of spices you need to make at least this much. It keeps refrigerated for up to three weeks; use as an onion relish. The curry sauce can be made a day or two ahead.

Mandarin soufflé with white chocolate sauce


You'll need

3 imperial mandarins, thickly sliced horizontally 4 eggwhites 100 gm caster sugar   Mandarin soufflé base 250 gm imperial mandarins (about 3), segmented 125 ml (½ cup) orange juice 100 gm caster sugar 40 ml mandarin liqueur (see note)   White chocolate sauce 60 gm couverture white chocolate, coarsely chopped 125 ml (½ cup) pouring cream ¼ vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped 2 tsp rosewater 120 gm (½ cup) crème fraîche   Orange-blossom toffee 110 gm (½ cup) caster sugar 1 tsp unsalted butter 2 tsp orange-blossom water For greasing: vegetable oil

Method

  • 01
  • For mandarin soufflé base, bring mandarin, orange juice and sugar to the simmer in a small saucepan over low-medium heat and cook until mandarin is pulpy (20-25 minutes). Strain through a fine sieve (reserve liquid), pressing to extract as much juice as possible. Process solids, mandarin liqueur and 75ml reserved liquid (discard excess) in a food processor until coarsely puréed. Refrigerate until required. Soufflé base will keep refrigerated in an airtight container for 3 days.
  • 02
  • For white chocolate sauce, place chocolate in a heatproof bowl and set aside. Combine cream, vanilla bean and vanilla seeds in a small saucepan over medium heat, bring to the boil, then set aside to infuse (30 minutes). Return to medium heat, bring to the simmer, pour onto white chocolate and stir until melted and smooth (1-2 minutes). Add rosewater, stir to combine and set aside to cool. Whisk chocolate mixture and crème fraîche to combine, refrigerate until required.
  • 03
  • Meanwhile, for orange-blossom toffee, combine sugar and 50ml water in a small saucepan over medium heat, stir to dissolve sugar, then cook until dark caramel (6-8 minutes). Remove from heat, add butter and orange-blossom water (be careful as hot toffee may spit), then return to heat and stir until dissolved. Pour onto an oiled metal tray and set aside to cool. When cool, break into coarse pieces and process in a food processor until finely ground. Store in an airtight container until required.
  • 04
  • Preheat oven to 180C. Place mandarin slices on a baking tray, scatter with orange-blossom toffee, then caramelise with a blowtorch (or under a hot grill) until golden (2-3 minutes), set aside.
  • 05
  • Whisk eggwhites in an electric mixer until very soft peaks form (2-3 minutes). Gradually add sugar and whisk until soft peaks form (1-2 minutes; don’t overwork). Fold one-third through soufflé base, then fold through remainder. Divide among six 200ml buttered and sugared ramekins, then level tops with a palette knife and wipe rims clean. Place on a baking tray and bake until risen and golden (5-7 minutes). Serve immediately with toffee mandarins and white chocolate sauce.
Note Mandarin liqueur is available from good bottle shops. If unavailable, substitute Cointreau or Grand Marnier.

This recipe is from the September 2010 issue of Australian Gourmet Traveller.

"On a long weekend in Beechworth, the last thing we expected was the best dessert we've ever had. Would you ask chef Michael Ryan at Provenance for his recipe for mandarin soufflé? I'd love to try making it myself."
Kim Bear, via email

Request a recipe
To request a recipe, write to Fare Exchange, Australian Gourmet Traveller, GPO Box 4088, Sydney, NSW 2001, or email us. All requests should include the restaurant's name and address or business card, as well as your name and address.


At A Glance

  • Serves 6 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 6 people

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