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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Lemon dream

"This cake is the new religion at Flour and Stone, and never fails to send those worshipping it into a dream of billowy clouds," says Ingram. "It has come to many parties, including one where its name was changed to reflect the euphoric place it transports you to."

Summer fruit trifle


You'll need

400 gm strawberries, quartered 400 gm each raspberries and blueberries To serve: crushed honeycomb confectionery (see note)   Thyme and brandy custard 600 ml milk 6 thyme sprigs 6 egg yolks 100 gm caster sugar 10 ml brandy   Walnut sponge cake 100 gm (2/3 cup) plain flour 2 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda 150 gm liquid glucose 100 gm butter, coarsely chopped 125 ml (½ cup) milk 2 eggs 100 gm brown sugar 100 gm finely chopped walnuts

Method

  • 01
  • For thyme and brandy custard, bring milk and thyme to just below the simmer in a saucepan over medium heat, set aside to infuse (30 minutes). Whisk yolks and sugar in a heatproof bowl until thick and pale (4-5 minutes), then, whisking continuously, strain milk mixture over yolk mixture (discard thyme). Stir continuously over a saucepan of simmering water until mixture coats the back of a spoon thickly (8-10 minutes). Remove from heat, add brandy, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled.
  • 02
  • Meanwhile, for walnut sponge cake, preheat oven to 170C. Sieve flour, cinnamon and bicarbonate of soda into a bowl and set aside. Stir glucose and butter in a saucepan over low heat to combine, add milk and remove from heat. Fold into flour mixture to combine and set aside. Whisk eggs and sugar in an electric mixer until pale and fluffy (3-4 minutes), fold in flour mixture, then walnuts. Spoon into a buttered 15cm x 20cm cake tin lined with baking paper and bake until a skewer withdraws clean (15-17 minutes). Cool in tin for 10 minutes, then turn onto a wire rack and cool completely. Tear coarsely into pieces and set aside.
  • 03
  • Combine berries in a bowl, then divide half the berries among eight 300ml glass jars or serving glasses. Scatter over a layer of sponge, spoon over custard then repeat with remaining sponge and custard, finishing with a layer of berries. Refrigerate until required, scatter with honeycomb confectionery and serve.
Note Honeycomb confectionery is available from select confectionery shops.

This recipe is from the December 2011 issue of Australian Gourmet Traveller.

“I’d like to make the summer fruit trifle from Hobart’s Ethos Eat Drink this Christmas. Would you please publish the recipe?”
Kerry Ng, via email

Request a recipe
To request a recipe, write to Fare Exchange, Australian Gourmet Traveller, GPO Box 4088, Sydney, NSW 2001, or email us. All requests should include the restaurant’s name and address or business card, as well as your name and address.


At A Glance

  • Serves 8 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 8 people

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