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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Artichokes à la barigoule


"On a recent trip to Melbourne I ate at many great restaurants, but Daniel Southern's artichokes à la barigoule at Comme stood apart from the crowd."
Daniel Wong, Newcastle, NSW

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You'll need

100 ml extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling 3 onions, thinly sliced 2-3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 750 ml dry white wine Bouquet garni (see note) 750 ml (4 cups) chicken stock 8 globe artichokes 1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced, placed in acidulated water, fronds reserved To serve: fennel pollen (see note) To serve: crusty bread   Carrot fondant 3 large carrots 2 garlic cloves, crushed 2 fresh bay leaves 1 thyme sprig 750 ml (4 cups) extra-virgin olive oil

Method

  • 01
  • For carrot fondant, preheat oven to 100C. Combine carrots, garlic, bay leaves and thyme in a small ovenproof dish, add enough oil to just cover and roast until carrots are tender (1 hour; press gently with a skewer to check). Set aside to cool slightly, then remove carrots with a slotted spoon and slice diagonally into thick pieces (discard solids; reserve oil for another use).
  • 02
  • Heat oil in a casserole over medium heat, add onion and garlic and stir occasionally until onion is tender (10-15 minutes). Add wine and bouquet garni and simmer until reduced by half (15-20 minutes). Add stock and simmer until reduced by half (15-20 minutes). Meanwhile, remove tough outer leaves of artichokes (discard), halve, remove hairy choke with a teaspoon (discard) and place in acidulated water to prevent discolouring as you go. Add artichokes to reduced stock, season to taste, cover with a lid, reduce heat to low and simmer until artichokes are just tender (15-20 minutes). Add carrot, stir to combine and season to taste. Discard bouquet garni and divide artichoke barigoule among plates, scatter with drained fennel, fennel pollen and reserved fennel fronds, drizzle with extra oil, season to taste, top with and serve hot with crusty bread.
Note For bouquet garni, tie 2 thyme sprigs, 2 fresh bay leaves, 1 star anise and ½ tsp each coriander seeds, fennel seeds and black peppercorns in a piece of muslin. Fennel pollen is available from select delicatessens and Waimea Trading.

At A Glance

  • Serves 6 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 6 people

Featured in

Oct 2013

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