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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

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Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Rhubarb millefeuille


"I dream about the rhubarb millefeuille at The Cove at Peppers York Cove. Will the chef share the recipe?"
Kelly Hunt, Hobart, Tas

REQUEST A RECIPE
To request a recipe, write to Fare Exchange, Australian Gourmet Traveller, GPO Box 4088, Sydney, NSW 2001, or email fareexchange@bauer-media.com.au. Please include the restaurant's name and address or business card, as well as your name and address.

You'll need

250 ml dry white wine 250 gm caster sugar 200 gm rhubarb (about 1 bunch), cut into 5cm pieces 1 (375gm) sheet butter puff pastry For brushing: eggwash For dusting: pure icing sugar   Crème pâtissière 250 ml (1 cup) milk 10 gm butter 1 vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped 65 gm caster sugar 3 egg yolks 15 gm plain flour To taste: pure orange oil (optional; see note) 100 ml pouring cream, whipped to soft peaks

Method

  • 01
  • Preheat oven to 160C. Stir wine, sugar and 250ml water in a saucepan over medium heat until sugar dissolves, then bring to the simmer. Place rhubarb in a small, deep baking tray, pour syrup over, then bake, covered with foil, until just tender (30-40 minutes). Transfer to a clean dish and refrigerate immediately to stop cooking.
  • 02
  • Increase oven to 200C. Roll pastry into a 25cm x 30cm rectangle, then cut into 8 even rectangles. Transfer to 2 lined baking trays, brush with eggwash and bake until golden and puffed (15-17 minutes), then cool.
  • 03
  • For crème pâtissière, place milk, butter and vanilla bean in a saucepan over low heat and bring to the simmer, then set aside to infuse (1 hour). Whisk vanilla seeds, sugar and yolks in an electric mixer on medium speed until pale and fluffy (5-6 minutes). Sift in flour and mix to combine. Return milk mixture to just below the boil, then whisk into yolk mixture in a thin, steady stream. Transfer to a clean pan and whisk continuously over low heat until thick, and flour is cooked out (8-10 minutes). Add orange oil to taste, pour into a container, cover closely with plastic wrap and chill. Once cold, fold through the whipped cream. Transfer to a piping bag fitted with a 1.5cm round nozzle.
  • 04
  • Split each pastry rectangle into 3 layers. Pipe crème pâtissière onto base and middle layers, top with rhubarb, then stack on one another, sandwich with tops, dust with icing sugar and serve.

Note Orange oil is available from specialist cake shops. If it's unavailable, substitute finely grated orange rind to taste. You'll need to begin this recipe a day ahead. Chefs at The Cove make their own puff pastry. If you want to make your own, check out our puff pastry recipe.


At A Glance

  • Serves 8 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 8 people

Featured in

Jul 2013

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