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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Shaved cabbage, fennel and ham salad


"Market Street Café is my local. I get my coffee there every morning on my way to work, and I often stop in for a salad for lunch. Their cabbage and local ham salad is my go-to lunch: simple and delicious. Any chance you might ask for the recipe?" Sally Jamieson, Mudgee, NSW

REQUEST A RECIPE
To request a recipe, write to Fare Exchange, Australian Gourmet Traveller, GPO Box 4088, Sydney, NSW 2001, or email fareexchange@bauer-media.com.au. Please include the restaurant's name and address or business card, as well as your name and address.

You'll need

2½ tsp fennel seeds 400 gm white cabbage (about ½ cabbage), thinly shaved 1 Spanish onion, thinly sliced 8 thin slices leg ham ½ cup coarsely torn flat-leaf parsley 1 tbsp each thyme, rosemary and finely chopped chives To serve: crusty sourdough bread   Cabernet vinegar vinaigrette 140 ml olive oil 60 ml (¼ cup) cabernet vinegar (see note) 1½ tsp Dijon mustard

Method

  • 01
  • For cabernet vinegar vinaigrette, whisk ingredients in a small bowl, season to taste and set aside.
  • 02
  • Dry-roast fennel seeds in a small frying pan (30 seconds), coarsely grind in a mortar and pestle and set aside.
  • 03
  • Combine cabbage, onion, ham, herbs and ground fennel in a large bowl, drizzle with cabernet vinegar vinaigrette, toss to combine, season to taste and serve with crusty bread.

Note  At the Market Street Café in Mudgee, chef Aaron Cole endeavours to use the best the region has on offer. This means the ham is free-range Ormiston, the fennel is wild and the herbs are picked from locals' gardens, with permission, of course. For this recipe he also uses Karabool olive oil and Robert Stein cabernet vinegar. Cabernet vinegar is available from select delicatessens and grocers. If it's unavailable, substitute red wine vinegar.


At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people

Featured in

Jun 2013

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