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AA Gill's final column for Gourmet Traveller

We mourn the loss of a treasured member of the Gourmet Traveller family who passed awayon December 10, 2016. British writer AA Gill was a contributor to the magazine from July 2004. Gill’s travel column was as insightful as it was witty, funny as it was thoughtful – he was without peer. This is the final piece he wrote for Gourmet Traveller; it appears in the December issue, 2016. - Anthea Loucas Bosha, Editor

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Coconut crab and green mango salad

"This salad bursts with fresh, vibrant flavours and became a signature on my Paramount menus," says Christine Manfield. "I capitalised on using green mangoes in many dishes as they became more widely available. Blue swimmer crabs from South Australia have the most delicious sweet meat. It's best to buy them whole, cook them yourself and carefully pick the meat from the shell - a tedious task but it gives the best flavour. This entree also works well with spanner crab meat (you can buy this in packs ready cooked from reliable fishmongers). The sweetness of the crab, the richness of the fresh coconut and the sourness of green mango make a wonderful partnership. It's all about harmony on the palate and using the very best produce."

Chicken and clove ragù with polenta pasta


"I can't get Valentino's clove-scented chicken ragù out of my mind. Would the chef share the recipe?"
Christopher Dranias, Brunswick, Vic

REQUEST A RECIPE
To request a recipe, email fareexchange@bauer-media.com.au or send us a message via Facebook. Please include the restaurant's name and address, as well as your name and address. Please note that because of the volume of requests we receive, we can only publish a selection in the magazine.

You'll need

1 bunch (about 350gm) cavolo nero, trimmed, ribs remove 60 ml (¼ cup) olive oil 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 3 anchovy fillets 40 gm (½ cup) finely grated pecorino, plus extra to serve   Polenta pasta 100 gm polenta 500 gm (3 cups) plain flour   Chicken ragù 60 ml (¼ cup) olive oil 3 golden shallots, finely diced 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 1 kg coarsely minced chicken 1 litre dry white wine 4 cloves, cracked

Method

  • 01
  • For polenta pasta, bring 350ml of salted water to the boil in a saucepan over medium-high heat, then add polenta in a thin, steady stream while whisking continuously until all is incorporated. Reduce heat to low and stir occasionally until polenta is cooked and thick (35-45 minutes; you may need to add extra water). Spread thinly on an oiled tray, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate to chill. Transfer polenta to a kitchen mixer fitted with a paddle and beat until smooth. Add flour and mix until a soft dough forms. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead until smooth (8-10 minutes), adding extra flour if too sticky. Wrap in plastic wrap and set aside to rest (30 minutes).
  • 02
  • For chicken and clove ragù, heat oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add shallot and garlic and sauté until tender (8-10 minutes). Add chicken and fry until juices reduce and chicken begins to brown (35-40 minutes). Add wine and cloves, and simmer until liquid is almost evaporated (30-40 minutes). Add 1 litre water and reduce by half (30 40 minutes). Season to taste and set aside.
  • 03
  • Meanwhile, divide pasta into quarters and roll each out on a lightly floured surface to about 2mm thick. Cut into triangles of about 3cm and transfer to flour-dusted trays.
  • 04
  • Cook cavolo nero in a saucepan of boiling salted water until tender (2-3 minutes). Drain, refresh and set aside. Heat oil in a large frying pan, over medium-high heat, add garlic and anchovies and cook until starting to colour (2-3 minutes). Add cavolo nero, season to taste and cook until starting to colour (2-3 minutes). Transfer to chicken ragù and stir to combine.
  • 05
  • Cook pasta in a large saucepan of simmering salted water until al dente (1-2 minutes). Drain, toss with ragù, sprinkle with pecorino and serve hot with extra pecorino.

Note At Valentino chef Riccardo Momesso likes to use whatever greens are in season.


At A Glance

  • Serves 6 - 8 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 6 - 8 people

Featured in

Mar 2014

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