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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Osso buco in bianco with polenta morbida


"The osso buco at Lalla Rookh is unlike any I've had before. Would you please print the recipe?"
Hunter Caldwell, Subiaco, WA

REQUEST A RECIPE
To request a recipe, email fareexchange@bauer-media.com.au or send us a message via Facebook. Please include the restaurant's name and address, as well as your name and address. Please note that because of the volume of requests we receive, we can only publish a selection in the magazine.

You'll need

2 tbsp light olive oil 1 kg (about 4 pieces) bobby veal osso buco 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced ½ cup each finely chopped rosemary and sage, plus extra to serve 1 onion, finely chopped 2 fresh bay leaves 100 gm butter, coarsely chopped 200 ml dry white wine 500 ml (2 cups) chicken stock   Polenta morbida 250 gm coarse yellow polenta 50 gm butter 75 gm (1 cup) finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Method

  • 01
  • Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat, season meat and cook, turning once, until browned (4-6 minutes), then remove and set aside. Reduce heat, add garlic and herbs, and cook until light golden (3-5 minutes), then add onion, bay leaves, butter and a pinch of salt and stir occasionally until onion is golden (6-8 minutes). Return meat to pan, add wine and half the stock, cover with a lid, reduce heat to low and simmer until meat is tender, topping up chicken stock throughout to cover meat by three-quarters (3½-4 hours). To finish, remove lid and increase heat to reduce liquid to a thick gravy consistency (12-15 minutes).
  • 02
  • For polenta morbida, bring 1 litre water to the boil in a heavy-based saucepan. Slowly add polenta while stirring continously and continue to stir until thickened (30-35 minutes), adding more water if necessary. Season to taste and beat in butter (15-20 minutes). Remove from heat and mix in Parmigiano-Reggiano.
  • 03
  • Serve osso buco hot with polenta and scattered with extra rosemary and sage.

Note "Most people know osso buco as a rich tomato-based meat braise that hails from Milan, but at Lalla Rookh we cook a very different version," says chef Joel Valvasori-Pereza. "For me, this very simple dish is better suited to the rich, sweet taste of bobby veal."


At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people

Featured in

Jul 2014

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