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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Farro recipes

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Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Neil Perry: Crumbed pork cutlet with sautéed apples, potatoes and sage


You'll need

60 gm (½ cup) plain flour 3 tbsp milk 1 egg 120 gm (1½ cups) day-old white breadcrumbs, dried slightly in the oven 4 pork cutlets, lightly pounded with a meat mallet to flatten slightly 80 ml (1/3 cup) extra-virgin olive oil 60 gm (¼ cup) unsalted butter To serve: lemon wedges   Sautéed apples, potatoes and sage 2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and cut into sixths 300 gm small waxy potatoes, such as pink eye or kipfler, steamed for 20 minutes and peeled 2 garlic cloves, crushed 10-12 sage leaves 80 ml (1/3 cup) extra-virgin olive oil 30 gm unsalted butter, plus 1 tbsp extra 3 tbsp white wine 3 tbsp chicken stock

Method

  • 01
  • Place the flour on a flat plate and season with some sea salt. Whisk the milk and egg together in a bowl. Place the breadcrumbs on a separate flat plate. Dip the pork cutlets in the seasoned flour and shake away any excess flour, then dip into the combined milk and egg. Finish by dipping the cutlets into the breadcrumbs, ensuring the meat and bone are evenly coated. Shake away any excess breadcrumbs.
  • 02
  • Heat half the oil and butter in a frying pan. When the butter is foaming, add two pork cutlets and cook over medium heat until the breadcrumbs are golden. Turn and cook the other side until golden and the pork is just cooked. Place in a warm oven and repeat the process with the remaining two cutlets.
  • 03
  • Heat a pan over medium heat, and sauté the apple, potato, garlic and sage leaves in the oil and butter. When the butter is nut brown, add the wine and cook for 2 minutes, then add the stock and cook for a further 2 minutes. Add the extra butter to the pan, remove from the heat and swirl to incorporate. Season with sea salt and freshly ground pepper.
  • 04
  • Place a chop on each plate, some sautéed potato and apples next to it and serve with a wedge of lemon.

"A great friend of mine says, 'If you want to sell it, crumb it'. He is of course referring to the obsession we all seem to have with crisp food. I have never met anyone who didn't like schnitzel, and this crumbed cutlet is a form of schnitzel. Here, as always, I'm suggesting you take the high road and make your own breadcrumbs, but if you don't want to, just use the bought variety and the result will still be very satisfying. If you can get your hands on some beautiful small kipflers, leave them whole in this recipe. If, instead, you are using pink eyes or similar, you may want to cut them in half." - Neil Perry

At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people

Featured in

Apr 2007

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