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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Lemon dream

"This cake is the new religion at Flour and Stone, and never fails to send those worshipping it into a dream of billowy clouds," says Ingram. "It has come to many parties, including one where its name was changed to reflect the euphoric place it transports you to."

Madeira jus


You'll need

2 kg beef shin bones 2 kg chicken bones 3 carrots, coarsely chopped 3 stalks celery, coarsely chopped 1 onion, peeled and cut in half 1 head of garlic, halved widthways 1 tsp black peppercorns 4 bay leaves ½ bunch thyme 1 (about 350gm) pig’s trotter ¼ cup herbs such as thyme, bay leaves, sage   Madeira reduction 2 large golden shallots, thinly sliced ½ bunch thyme 2 bay leaves ½ tsp black peppercorns 250 ml (1 cup) dry white wine 250 ml (1 cup) Madeira 1 clove of garlic, thinly sliced

Method

  • 01
  • Preheat oven to 200C. Roast bones in separate large roasting pans for 1 hour or until golden. Remove from oven and combine in1 roasting pan. Strain oil from empty pan, add vegetables and roast for 30 minutes or until golden. Transfer bones and vegetables to a stock pot, add peppercorns, bay leaves, thyme, pig’s trotter and enough water to cover. Bring to the boil over high heat, then simmer, occasionally skimming any scum from surface, over very low heat for 7 hours. Strain through a chinois (see note), then strain again through a muslin-lined fine sieve. Cool, then refrigerate for 2-3 hours or until the fat has separated from the stock, then skim solidified fat from the top and discard. Pat jellied stock using absorbent paper to remove all excess fat.
  • 02
  • For Madeira reduction, combine all ingredients in a saucepan, bring to the boil over high heat, reduce heat to medium-high and cook for 20 minutes or until reduced to ¾ cup. Strain.
  • 03
  • Combine reduction and 1.5kg jellied stock in a saucepan. Bring to the boil over high heat, reduce to medium and cook, skimming frequently, for 1 hour 15 mins or until reduced to 2 cups. Add herbs and cook for 30 seconds.Jus will keep, refrigerated, for up to 1 week.
Note A chinois is a conical-shaped, fine mesh strainer perfect for straining sauces and stocks.

Don’t be put off by the cooking time: this luxe sauce does all the work for you by means of gentle stovetop reduction. Serve with poultry, game or pork.

At A Glance

  • Serves 6 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 6 people

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